23/06/07
After leaving town it starts off with a nice walk through woods of tall eucalyptus trees Here I remember I met the lovely Patricia on my North Camino and couldn't help but wonder how she was today and if she walked this year, we had lost touch after arriving.
Later the airport noises, the flowers in the meadows all seemed so familiar, and kept old friends coming into mind as I walked sneezing and still feeling awful.
I met Renate somewhere and we walked together chatting. I soon realised she would never become such a good friend as those I was remembering but she was a very nice person and good company and I needed that as we went along, I would not arrive alone now. We passed through Cimadevilla, San Paio and Labacolla where the plane noises come from, as near here is the Santiago airport.
Then, after six kilometres of mostly gentle climbing, we came to the heights of Monte de Gozo at 11.47am.
We took an awful coffee from the stall there and went into the little chapel where I lit a candle. We walked up to the monument and further over to see if you could really see Santiago cathedral from here but we found that today this is just not possible. Renate met a young friend here and he joined us as we left. They spoke together most of the time in German and I tended to walk in front now. They were banking on me knowing the way and I told them what we normally did on arrival but neither seemed to show any excitement, which I thought strange. They were more worried about finding lodgings and I said I could help find that too once we had arrived. I had to stop and buy more tissues on the way into town as I was still sneezing.
We arrived and went down the side of the cathedral into the square that was busy as usual and I took them over to the shell
but still neither showed any excitement at arriving! This was something I could not understand for I have cried every time I stood here and laughed and shouted too sometimes. Now deflated I never even got out my camera! Ok I had a horrible cold so maybe no big hugs!
"Ok we have (llagado) (arrived) now we go in the cathedral and complete the ritual" I said.
Leading the way we climbed the steps and joined the crowd entering. It was packed with people near the door and I pushed over to touch the marble pillar that to me was what I had been dreaming of doing for so long. As I got near I was amazed! Around it and the base now stood a stainless steel barrier keeping everyone more than arms length away from it.
"How could they" I gasped as I stood there unbelieving! "For a thousand years pilgrims have knelt and put their hands in those stone lions mouths to see if they are possessed by the devil and banged their heads for knowledge on that stone head
and then reached up and touched the marble pillar where you see it's worn away to fit your hand!!!!!!"
I felt so terribly cheated. I had suffered and walked all this way for nothing! I felt this ritual was made by the pilgrims, for the pilgrims. Sure I could, and still would embrace the gold and silver statue of Santiago and say my thanks but that was what I have always thought of as basically a Catholic church ritual! I was told later it was to allow it to be restored! What utter rubbish, do they cut out the stone and replace it I thought!!!!!
Now I can't remember if we did go hug the figure of Santiago then or not, but I did later. I hugged him and thanked and remembered all those wonderful people that had helped me on my way. My wife, my camino friends, the man who gave me an orange, the lady who fed me and would take no payment, the help to find a bed for the night in the town lock up, and all the others over the past six weeks.
Now I am outside with Renate and her young friend. We decided to find lodgings before getting the credential. We walked to the bar but new owners now ran it and he only offered a flat for 70 E in the another part of town and none of us wanted to be far from the centre of town.
"We'll try down the street" I said out of his ear shot and we went down to the place I had stopped in last time and I rang the bell. The other two saw that next door was a small hotel and just left me standing there after I had rung the bell and went in. I couldn't leave! The intercom asked what I wanted and I explained who I was and asked had she any rooms for the night. The door lock clicked and I entered and went up the stairs where the lady I knew waited for me. She showed me the little room I had used last time and a bigger one with two singles in it. I said I'd go tell the others but finding them in the hotel next door they said they had booked two rooms at 50E each. I said I had one at 25 and one at 35E
"We've booked" they said.
"Ok I'll see you in the square for dinner about seven"
I went back and took the small room for myself. I had a shower and unpacked a bit. I slept and later got my credential and text Maisie at 7.30 and she rang me back and we arranged to try to alter my ticket home. I met Renate and we ate some tapas in a restaurant, but it was a pretty unexciting meal.
Walking in the square later she recognised some tall chap and we went over and it turned out to be Richard Gere the film star! He seemed a nice chap and we met on very even terms, congratulating each other on the walk. I told him of some of the things that had happened on my trip. He seemed to take to me as I did him and we were to meet several times later.
Arca to Santiago
After leaving town it starts off with a nice walk through woods of tall eucalyptus trees Here I remember I met the lovely Patricia on my North Camino and couldn't help but wonder how she was today and if she walked this year, we had lost touch after arriving.
Later the airport noises, the flowers in the meadows all seemed so familiar, and kept old friends coming into mind as I walked sneezing and still feeling awful.
I met Renate somewhere and we walked together chatting. I soon realised she would never become such a good friend as those I was remembering but she was a very nice person and good company and I needed that as we went along, I would not arrive alone now. We passed through Cimadevilla, San Paio and Labacolla where the plane noises come from, as near here is the Santiago airport.
Then, after six kilometres of mostly gentle climbing, we came to the heights of Monte de Gozo at 11.47am.
We took an awful coffee from the stall there and went into the little chapel where I lit a candle. We walked up to the monument and further over to see if you could really see Santiago cathedral from here but we found that today this is just not possible. Renate met a young friend here and he joined us as we left. They spoke together most of the time in German and I tended to walk in front now. They were banking on me knowing the way and I told them what we normally did on arrival but neither seemed to show any excitement, which I thought strange. They were more worried about finding lodgings and I said I could help find that too once we had arrived. I had to stop and buy more tissues on the way into town as I was still sneezing.
We arrived and went down the side of the cathedral into the square that was busy as usual and I took them over to the shell
but still neither showed any excitement at arriving! This was something I could not understand for I have cried every time I stood here and laughed and shouted too sometimes. Now deflated I never even got out my camera! Ok I had a horrible cold so maybe no big hugs!
"Ok we have (llagado) (arrived) now we go in the cathedral and complete the ritual" I said.
Leading the way we climbed the steps and joined the crowd entering. It was packed with people near the door and I pushed over to touch the marble pillar that to me was what I had been dreaming of doing for so long. As I got near I was amazed! Around it and the base now stood a stainless steel barrier keeping everyone more than arms length away from it.
"How could they" I gasped as I stood there unbelieving! "For a thousand years pilgrims have knelt and put their hands in those stone lions mouths to see if they are possessed by the devil and banged their heads for knowledge on that stone head
and then reached up and touched the marble pillar where you see it's worn away to fit your hand!!!!!!"
I felt so terribly cheated. I had suffered and walked all this way for nothing! I felt this ritual was made by the pilgrims, for the pilgrims. Sure I could, and still would embrace the gold and silver statue of Santiago and say my thanks but that was what I have always thought of as basically a Catholic church ritual! I was told later it was to allow it to be restored! What utter rubbish, do they cut out the stone and replace it I thought!!!!!
Now I can't remember if we did go hug the figure of Santiago then or not, but I did later. I hugged him and thanked and remembered all those wonderful people that had helped me on my way. My wife, my camino friends, the man who gave me an orange, the lady who fed me and would take no payment, the help to find a bed for the night in the town lock up, and all the others over the past six weeks.
Now I am outside with Renate and her young friend. We decided to find lodgings before getting the credential. We walked to the bar but new owners now ran it and he only offered a flat for 70 E in the another part of town and none of us wanted to be far from the centre of town."We'll try down the street" I said out of his ear shot and we went down to the place I had stopped in last time and I rang the bell. The other two saw that next door was a small hotel and just left me standing there after I had rung the bell and went in. I couldn't leave! The intercom asked what I wanted and I explained who I was and asked had she any rooms for the night. The door lock clicked and I entered and went up the stairs where the lady I knew waited for me. She showed me the little room I had used last time and a bigger one with two singles in it. I said I'd go tell the others but finding them in the hotel next door they said they had booked two rooms at 50E each. I said I had one at 25 and one at 35E
"We've booked" they said.
"Ok I'll see you in the square for dinner about seven"
I went back and took the small room for myself. I had a shower and unpacked a bit. I slept and later got my credential and text Maisie at 7.30 and she rang me back and we arranged to try to alter my ticket home. I met Renate and we ate some tapas in a restaurant, but it was a pretty unexciting meal.
Walking in the square later she recognised some tall chap and we went over and it turned out to be Richard Gere the film star! He seemed a nice chap and we met on very even terms, congratulating each other on the walk. I told him of some of the things that had happened on my trip. He seemed to take to me as I did him and we were to meet several times later.
END DAY 39 = approx. 20.3 km Sub Total = 615.0 km Total = 947.1 km [Total should be 952.9 km so somehow I’ve lost another 5.8 km !!! chuckle,]
