11/06/07 Virgen del Camino to Hospital de Órbigo

WEEK 5
11/06/07 Monday

Virgen del Camino to Hospital de Órbigo

I set off on my own but soon found Roser a Spanish lady that I had chatted to on my return to the albergue last night. I am small but this lady is smaller than I with a warm and charming smile. I was informed by her that she walked slowly, and I must go on if it was too slow for me. I welcomed her company and let her set the pace as we chatted and sauntered along this rather barren way. There had been a choice of caminos as we left the town. We had taken the left track as the other was following the motorway. I was told afterwards it was a good choice as the other camino was pretty horrible with traffic all the time. Roser told me she came from near Barcelona and I must have come very near her village on my Ebro Camino She had started from Juan Pied de Port I think, the French border anyway. Her pack was light I could see and very basic. I discovered later her main waterproof was a plastic bag! Quiet and shy nothing ever fazed her. My guidebook was no good on this route and we just followed the arrows. There was little chance to get lost. We came to Villa Mazarife, a small farming community, and there is a nice tile mosaic as you come in. Roser said she wanted to see inside the albergue because a friend had stopped there and enjoyed it so much. We would not stay as it was much too early. We arrived and the dueña was cleaning but chatted a while and then let us wander around.



This albergue is an amazing place with drawings and sketches on the walls everywhere. The garden was interesting too with a wooden Viking ship, for children to play on I presume. I found a few four-leaf clovers in the lawn then we left. We met a Spanish man, Juan, and he and Roser were chatting so I went on as I was finding the pace very slow. I met Roser again later outside a bar. My feet had blisters again, I wonder if I will ever learn. I am still carrying the full pack - nothing has been posted on. Roser said casually "You will arrive in Santiago with it too." We walked together again and stayed that way till eventually we came to Hospital de Órbigo. I love this place, it has one of the finest old bridges I have seen and with it goes a wonderful tale of a knight that held the bridge to defend the honour of his lady. I must try to find out more about this story someday, but had I heard and read of it in Spanish and got the idea. I sang my song 'Gallant knight' as I walked over the bridge's cobblestones with Roser.

Gallant Knight

In the deep dark forest of my mind
I am a Gallant Knight,
with my sword held high.
I'll snatch you from the dragon's mouth.
and ride off, you and I
In the deep dark forest of my mind
In the deep dark forest of my mind

Gallant Knight, Oh Templer Knight.
Fear not, my dear lady,
You know, it is I
riding on this great white steed.
This mighty steed can fly.
In the deep dark forest of my mind
In the deep dark forest of my mind

Jump up here beside me
let your robe it flow behind.
Troubles, they will leave your face
Cares gone. You will find
when you ride with me my lady
In the deep dark forest of my mind
In the deep dark forest of my mind

We'll smite down the strongest foe
as we ride the sunset sky
Saving all sweet maidens,
and making dragons die
In the deep dark forest of my mind
In the deep dark forest of my mind

They'll tremble in his shadow
and we'll make those dragons fly.
On this gallant steed of mine,
we'll travel, you and I.
In the deep dark forest of my mind
In the deep dark forest of my mind

Come ride with me my lady,
come ride away with me
We'll ride away together,
to the sunset you will see.
In the deep dark forest of my mind
In the deep dark forest of my mind

as we ride into the sunset,
as we ride across the sky

© Michael Davey 2006-05-06

This is roughly the story as I translated it from the towns web site.
The item that has entered Literature with an honourable title was obtained by the gift of Quiñones and achieved with the help of nine horsemen, men like him, from Leon, on the 9th of July and August 1434, a sacred Jacobeo year. He was imprisoned with the love of a lady whom it says, he took an iron collar to his neck, as proof of his slavery to her, from which he hoped to be released, by completing the walk in her honour to Santiago. He defied all the horsemen of Europe, "near the bridge of the Órbigo, fight to obtain the right of way." The true friends were arranged with the true authorisation, the regulation was published, the warehouses, barriers and the fences built and they raised their colours and staged the competition during thirty days. In the end, the ten champions, mangled and repaired, went on to Compostela. Put the serum, gave a necklace of silver and gold to the bust of Santiago the minor, that presides over most of the processions in the Compostela basilica. In memory of this fact of arms that as much applauded, two monoliths were put at each end of the bridge with the history of the deed with the names of the ten champions

There are several places to stay but we came to the Parroquial Albergue and it is a picture postcard place and we booked in there.








We met Juan and Francesca and decided to look for a place to eat. The local supermarket was pretty hopeless for buying food to cook. I remembered eating a nice meal in the village before. All I had to do was remember where. The street was easy enough, the first on the left after crossing the bridge I thought. Well we found the road but there was a choice of restaurants and I was not sure which one it had been. Anyway we chose the most rural look and were shown through to the patio and chose a pleasant table and we ate a nice meal. Conversation was fun being in two languages, Francesca was Dutch but spoke good English, Roser only spoke Spanish. Juan was Spanish, but could speak good English so he or I would translate for the girls and we had a lot of fun and sank a bottle of good red Rioja and finished with coffee and orujo! My only problem that night was getting off my top bunk and finding the door in a pitch-black room, packed with bunks and no room between them without waking everyone. The toilet and showers were out in the patio! Still I did see a beautiful starry night sky!

END DAY 27 = approx. 25.1 km Sub Total = 336.7 km Total = 674.6 km

10/06/07 Villarente to La Virgen del Camino

10/06/07 Sunday

Villarente to La Virgen del Camino

It was absolutely pouring outside the albergue but still the crazy or hardened peregrinos left the comfort of the vestibule. I collected my washing and put it away hanging the socks that had not dried on the outside, my cape would stop them getting wetter if it was raining when I decided to go, not that I had any intention of leaving in this. I had a text from Maisie to say that an old friend had passed away. Not a good start to the day! The rain eased and we left. Francesca and I had found the track normally passed here but it was muddy so we went back into town and followed the arrows from there. It was a boring walk and a little confusing being the usual industrial entrance into a big town, and at times, with road works and lacking arrows.
I passed two named villages, Arcahueja and Valdefuentes.














I was then lucky enough to be piped and escorted into León by a group of pipers and traditionally dressed ladies. I left them at the bridge to continue into town, while I found a little tourist office and got a map of the town. I stopped for a coffee then as I walked further into the city I joined a crowd of peregrinos talking German. I said "Bueno camino" to them and making a lot of noise they just carried on while I now chatted to a pleasant elderly Spanish lady. Our conversation turned from peregrinos that spoke not one word of Spanish to, of course, where did I come from and of my journey on the Ebro camino. We chatted as if we had known each other for ages and in the town she apologised for having to leave to go to her daughters house to see her grand children.
"You may kiss me" she said turning her head and indicating her cheeks with her hand. I did as I was told and felt very honoured to do so. I had received the best welcome a city could give.
I found the albergue that we had stayed in before and crowds of peregrinos were waiting for it to open. I looked round the porch of the monastery and then left and looked up at the high windows of the big dorm where I had stayed. Two young nun novices were watching the people in the road and in the square opposite. I smiled up to them and was acknowledged. I thought back that I had seen not one when I stayed here before, but it had been strictly male and female dorms!
I could not stay here - too many memories. I walked on and discovered the beautiful square









then on up to the top of the hill to the cathedral.



This time the sun refused to shine through the fantastic stained glass windows, I would just have to remember the wonderful shafts of coloured light that streamed through them when I was here before. It is a magnificent cathedral but I left now and took a coffee in a nearby bar and chatted to two men in traditional dress who looked like the ones that had played as I came into town. I was fascinated by the workmanship and colours stitched into their jackets. I took a photo of the back of one as he sat at the bar.



On my way out of town I stopped and went into another church,
the Basílica de San Isidoro, where I said my thanks again.
On leaving I had difficulty finding my way, but by asking several people I eventually found the right road. For a long way it was very built up and I stopped in a restaurant and tried the hare that was on the menu. It was ok but not something really exciting. I set off again and eventually arrived at La Virgen del Camino, where my guidebook said there was an albergue and I found it in what I think had been some sort of school at one time. It was well done and comfortable and most importantly clean. The only fault I found was that I could not find the instructions for the Micro Wave cooker!
During my walk from León I had text Vigi that I would be coming to Leon today. Vigi is an old friend that I met walking to Finisterra in 2004 and again in her hometown in 2005. I was very surprised and delighted to receive a reply saying she would meet me in an hour if I would text her where I was staying! I did so and now searched the grounds for a four-leaf clover to give her. I found one and took out one of my last koalas to give her. I know she has family here in Leon but knew she would have to drive from Oviedo to meet me and that was a good hour's drive. I sat on a bench chatting to a fellow peregrino till she arrived. I was so engrossed in conversation I didn't see her arrive but heard her call out my name and I looked up to see three ladies on the path. One was of Vigi and she was as excited to see me as I was to see her. We embraced and kissed both cheeks and I could not have been more welcomed. She then introduced me to her friends, both charming ladies. I gave Vigi her koala and the clover and she proudly showed me she still carried the clover I had given her two years ago. Arm in arm we all walked back to the main road and the bar on the corner. Here I had to tell my stories and they made a great fuss of me and I in return sung the song I wrote 'Donde va Peregrina' to them, much to the enjoyment of the rest of the patrons too. Alas Vigi said she must return to Oviedo and the two other girls who worked in the hospital in Leon must leave too. Snatching my money away and stuffing it back in my pocket they insisted on paying the bill. We now all walked to where they had parked the cars and said our goodbyes.
"One moment" said Vigi rushing over to her car. I was dumbstruck when she returned with a single peach rose for me. "For your hat" she insisted. I was overwhelmed "Gracias" was all I could say and kissed her on her cheek again. She knew I nearly always walk with a flower in my hat but never as big or as beautiful one as this rose. I waved a sad goodbye as she drove off and to the other two who now turned their car the other way towards Leon. I deliberately stepped onto the crossing to make them stop, then waved to them again after crossing still clutching my peach rose.

END DAY 26 = approx 27.3 km Sub Total = 311.6 km Total = 649.5 km

09/06/07 Burgo Ranero to Puente de Villarente

09/06/07

Burgo Ranero to Puente de Villarente

I left at 8am after walking into the village for a coffee. Soon I am on this straight road again. There is little to look at and I am grateful of the cloud cover today as I have been now for the last two days. The new trees here are not big enough as yet to shade you as you walk and I was to take few photos today. I passed the first rest stop mentioned in my guidebook, it had a few trees and a bench to rest on and I remembered meeting a friend here before. The grass was more than knee high today and lush after last night's rain. A few frogs croaked a chorus from water in the ditch as I walked on, evidence of a wet spring. I was glad I had not weathered last night's storm here. There were a number of peregrinos all heading in the same direction but I stayed alone and eventually came to a second place and here too the grass was high around the big concrete tables and benches supplied for tired Peregrinos. I decided to make soup and eat some bread and was surprised how many peregrinos walked past, some I knew some not, but all called out
"Buen camino"
Next stop was Reliegos and here I had coffee and Spanish omelette. Somewhere after that I text home and a little while later Maisie phoned me back. Amazingly, wherever it was I had just arrived outside a factory. Here was a shade stop with tables and benches too so I was able to sit down on a table and relax and talk comfortably.
My two kids, their partners and all the grandkids were there and all said hello to me. I told them how I missed them and that it was a good day for walking because it was still cloudy after last night’s storm and that I was fit and going well.
I was thrilled to hear everybody and was very happy but now I found as I rang off that I was crying my eyes out!
Six more kms and Mansilla de las Mulos came into view. I had stopped in this village before with a big crowd of Spanish peregrinos. My shirts and trousers had just about worn out and here we discovered a little shop where I could buy some new ones and today I was still wearing one of the shirts and the other was in my bag! I have never been able to find shirts that wore so well, looked as good or dried as quickly as these two do. They were just beginning to fray at the cuff but were still serviceable. I was determined to see if that little shop was still here and if he still stocked those shirts! I racked my brain and found the street and the shop! The same man was serving a customer and I waited my turn.
"Can I help you" he said as he finished serving the lady.
"Si I want two of these," I said touching my shirt collar, "I bought two from you four years ago in this very shop and I have warn them almost every day since. I have searched the world looking for any as good but it's impossible! So now I am hoping you have two new ones or me."
"What size" he said smiling
"I have no idea, small I suppose!"
He pulled out a pair of steps and climbed up, dived his hand in a pidgin hole and came out with two shirts exactly the same white with a stripped pattern.
"Only one small but this is not much bigger. It will be ok for walking" he said noticing I had my shirt unbuttoned.
The collar size said only one number different so I took his word for it.
"Ok I'll take them how much"
The ticket pinned to the shirts said 140 pesetas!! I now realised how often he sold shirts!!!.
He jotted a few figures down on a piece of paper
"15 Euro?"
"For the two" he added as an after thought.
"Fine I'll take them." I had not seen a shirt under 30 Euro in the shops in the big towns! I could not get over that I had come halfway round the world to buy two shirts! I had tried everywhere to buy shirts as great for hiking in and never found anything remotely as good.
I looked at socks but decided not to buy any, I could manage. He meanwhile was wrapping up the shirts.
"Don’t worry, they have to pack in here" I said indicating my rucksack.
We now tore them from the cellophane and removed the card and pins. He then carefully refolded them telling me how I should do it so as not to crease them and I undid my rucksack and placed them in with my other clothes. I repacked all and zipped up and paid my 15E while we joked about meeting again in 4 years time!
I told my shirt story and had a beer with a group of friends at a table outside a bar. All were stopping here and I said goodbye and they went off to find this shop, hoping to buy a few bargains.
I like this little town and have some great memories of it. Strange how some things change, and others not, I looked into the albergue and it looked the same but the little hedge in the patio had gone and with it the pungent smell that it gave off was also gone. That smell had driven me to take a hostel round the corner while the rest of my Spanish friends had stayed here! I had returned later and we had all chipped in and the girls made a great huge pasta meal and we drank many bottles of wine that evening in this patio!
I must be much fitter now than I was then, I realised as I headed out over the bridge. I stopped turned and took a photo of the town I was leaving. This time I'm alone but it had been my choice.
My guidebook said there are no albergues in the next four villages but in 6 kms I came to Puente de Villarente. I now knew there was one here because some way back a Mercedes had stopped and a lady had given me a brochure about it. I was walking into town when the rain that had been threatening to fall most of the afternoon started. I came to the first few buildings, where signs indicated there was more than one albergue here now, but I had decided to use the one in the brochure.
It started to rain really hard so I sheltered in the lea of a building with three nice Spanish guys. The rain soon eased a little and I hurried on to find the albergue. It was run by foreigners and whilst clean, seemed to me, ridiculously regimented. After being told to remove my boots and place them in the coral I was issued a bunk. Walking with a heavy rucksack with hot sore and sweaty feet over cold slate floors is not nice! My sandals were hidden well inside my rucksack!
I washed my shirt and socks and hung them in the old open fronted coral to dry, not that they would dry much in this weather.
I took a chance when it eased a bit and went out to try to find a place to eat. The administrator had said it would be hopeless but I said I'd like to look anyway. I did make the acquaintance once again with Francesca, a Dutch lady. We had a few tapas and a drink in a rather miserable bar then when we returned to the albergue, we found everyone sitting down with salad and pasta on the table. Francesca disappeared to her dorm while I sat down with them and asked for a wine and could I eat, but it seemed to fall on deaf ears, (I am not sure whether they didn't understand or didn't want to). In the end I did get one glass of wine but not one person offered food and few even spoke to me! I thought how different were the Spanish I travelled with last time and left them to get some sleep.

END DAY 25 = approx. 24 km Sub Total = 290.3 km Total = 628.2 km

08/06/07 Moratinos to Burgo Ranero

08/06/07

Moratinos to Burgo Ranero

6.21am I am awake and taking photos of the sunrise
Peregrinos have been walking past since 5.30 am and some used the flash to take photos of my little tent, there by waking me up!! Why they start this early beats me? They must have left the albergue at 5 am in the dark! Still I'm thinking I should be off! I packed away my tent and hoped for a café soon. I walked past James house, saw his notice 'bricklayer wanted' but resisted the impulse and walked on. As I left the village I took a photo of the church. standing in the morning light with not a soul about, I could almost see Luke and his mate come round the corner as they had done just after I took that photo 4 years ago. Only the trees have grown a little in that time. I was standing on the same spot as I had then. Funny how one place sticks in your memory, maybe it was the carved yellow arrow that triggered it! San Nicolas del Real camino had a café where I bought a coffee, 7.4 km to Sahagún my book said, I could soon see it in the distance. I passed an old Ermita.









On entering town I asked for the centre and left the marked route. I found a bank and changed some cash. The town was very busy and as I came down a narrow street towards a square, a chap tagged on to me and asked where I was going. He had the look of a southern gypsy and I was suspicious of him and worried about the cash I had going missing again. He said he would show me the way and we entered the square people were setting up stalls and some knew him and asked where was he going. I spotted an arrow ignoring his glib reply to them I said
"It's ok, I know where I am going now" and briskly walked in the direction of the arrow, but he still tagged on to me. I heard a voice call my name it was Yolanda and I said goodbye to my shadow and quickly joined the girls sitting in the shade under a tree. Realising I was not going to go on he left me in peace.
It was quite hot and the girls were killing time here doing a little shopping. One sat looking after the bags while the other toured the town. There was a lot of clover here and we hunted for the one with four leaves. I found one and then Yollanda found another and gave it to me. I was happy to take it, as I had given them one each before I think. It's nice to get one back this way, it doesn't happen very often. Now rested I wanted to move on and the girls were content waiting for it to get a little cooler, so I said my goodbyes and went across the square and through the arch and over the river bridge.









On the road again I had a few problems finding the way as the arrows were not very good here. It was a lonely road and quite hard in the warm sun.









Near Bercianos there was a large clump of trees and a bench stood in the shade. Here I found one woollen sock and a map sheet, in its clear plastic holder. Ahead I could see someone coming back towards me, so thinking they must have dropped them, I picked them up and carried it towards them. Sure enough that was what had happened and whilst the lady could only speak but a few words of English, she was so grateful that I had helped her and she insisted she buy me a drink in the next bar. I gave her a four-leaf clover from the last town and agreed to the drink. We arrived Bercianos and went to the first bar and she happily paid for a coffee and cognac but she was worried she might not find a bed in the nearby albergue so we soon wished each other 'buen camino' and parted. We met many days later and everyone in the bar had to know how she had been helped by this wonderful Australian!!! It wasn't as if I had needed to carry her rucksack!!! It was a hot and uninteresting walk. This part is very hard when it is hot. Planting trees has helped the path a little. When I walked here before they were spindly saplings unable to shade their own roots let alone a hot and sweaty pilgrim. Today they are a little better and are surviving well. It just needs another 4 years growth. Still every little helps and although warm and humid it wasn’t 40 degrees today like it can get out here, I had experienced the high 30's here last time! I had been thinking that I could stop and camp today, not here but about 5 km farther on than Burgo Ranero.
I had remembered that there are two shade stops on that next leg and I remembered the first one. A stone seat, and level and grassy. It would be late when I arrived but if I stocked up on food and water in the town first, I would be ok.
Whenever I make plans something changes and this time it was the weather! As I arrived in Burgo, great big black clouds were rolling in, I dare not risk camping! Ok I knew where the albergue was as I had gone there before. They had been full but I had been given a bed. This time they were full again.
"No room" was the reply from the guy that runs the place.
"Is there anywhere else?" I asked.
"As you leave town on the right" he proffered in an uninterested voice.
Ok, I was not going to get much more help from him so I left.
I came to the edge of town and saw the arrows sending me out again into the country. No point going out there now, I thought looking up at the blackening sky. Three old people were sitting on a bench outside a building and I asked where the albergue was but they said they didn't know. I said the albergue in town is full but they told me there is another as I left town on the right?
"Try over there" said one old man pointing across to a building some way off. I could just see a notice and read 'albergue' I had found it!
I walked through a large gate onto a stone paved area between two buildings. Beyond was a stone walled grassy garden. Scattered about the garden were tables and chairs with bright coloured sunshades. The building to my left and the other to my right, both looked like dorms as they had pilgrims smelly boots outside. Seeing a Spanish lady hanging out washing on a clothes line further down, I started towards her but on the end of the first building I could now see the office and an alfresco bar.
It all looked very nice but a cool wind was getting gusty. I ordered a beer and asked the chap for a bed and filled in the forms and paid up. He told me to use the dorm on the right as I had come in. I finished my beer and went over to see it. It was a nice enough room, fairly new, three rows of bunks and a doorway at the end. Through this was a hallway, to the left a pair of basins, to the right were 2 showers and 2 toilets and at the far end an exit door which you left from in the morning. I went back and took the top bunk beside the first door where I had come in. A hot shower refreshed me and I mopped up the water - why there were no shower curtains to stop water flooding the hallway I do not know!
I washed my shirt and socks outside in a clothes washing sink and went to the garden clothesline near the bar to hang them out. Just as I started, the wind got up! Tables, umbrellas and chairs suddenly took off as did some of the washing and everyone started dashing about trying to save things. I decided hanging out washing was a bad idea!
I collected up mine again and set off back to the dorm, saving a flying table on the way. Giving it to the hospitalario I went back towards the dorm and just as I got to the door the first heavy rain arrived. Grabbing my own boots I flung them inside the door, then following them with the rest that had been put outside to air, darting inside I slammed the door to stop the rain from beating in. There seemed to be more people than beds now, and there were. Four young chaps had been visiting a mate and were stuck here with no rain gear! After a big discussion they stripped down to their shorts put their clothes in a plastic bag, opened the door and ran like hell into the storm! They had to go all the way back into town and the other albergue!
I pinned my washing on the window curtain beside my bed and decided to cook on the side of the sink in the wash room. It was very difficult as people were still showering and water from there and from under the bottom of the outside door was now flooding the hall. Still I ate and many didn't. No one was going to town to find a restaurant tonight!
Back in my bunk I closed my eyes to sleep, listening to the wind and rain buffeting the outside. I was very glad I had not walked on to camp out tonight!

END DAY 24 = approx. 28 km Sub Total = 266.3 km Total = 604.2 km

07/06/07 Villalcázar de Sirga to Camp Moratinos

07/06/07

Villalcázar de Sirga to Camp Moratinos

The girls had gone by the time I awoke so I set off on my own. Soon I was walking the straight road with the path for us peregrinos on the right-hand side.
I made good time and arrived at Carrion in an hour and it is 5.8 km. On the way I realised I had not placed money in the donation box at the albergue. It was too late to think about it now, I was not going to walk back 5.8 kms but I did feel guilty! Carrion is a nice town and I took a few photographs here then took a coffee in a bar in town and met a few peregrinos I knew, but again I set off alone.










The next stage to Calzadilla has no shade and no water, so my book said, and was 17.2 kms. The weather now had changed to warm and I knew this stretch from before. Just outside of town I stopped and took off my waistcoat and was fixing it on my rucksack when a cyclist wearing the usual crash hat, tight black pants and brightly coloured top, stopped turned round and came over to take my photo! After Holde I was not too fazed out by this. He smiled and said "You don’t recognise me do you? I am from the albergue the hospitalaria!" I realised then who he was and we shook hands and he wished me "Buen camino" and said he was keeping fit riding and would do a round circuit of some 20kms round and back to the albergue. Just as he rode out of sight I again remembered I had not paid for my bed! Too late again I kicked myself for not remembering! Soon I had to take a left turn and made good time down a pretty country road. A while later I saw my small road met with another road, here a lady was sitting on a small low sequía wall eating an apple. There had been hedgerows but little shade or anything to sit on and I asked if I might join her on the little brickwork wall and eat my apple too. Here we sat eating and chatting when suddenly a voice calls out to me and I see my hospitalaria friend riding back home on the other road. I shouted back calling for him to stop and he turned round and rode back to me. I explained I had not paid for my lodgings last night and was embarrassed that on seeing him again, I still had not remembered, now I asked would he take my payment back for me please. He said it didn't matter and not to bother, but I insisted and smiling he took the few Euro and we waved and shouted encouragement to each other as he rode off. I said goodbye to my new friend and continued my camino. The track became a rough un-surfaced road and went on for about 8 km from Carrión and here I found some enterprising person had set up a portable building as a café just a week before and they were doing extremely well. I also stopped and had a cool beer and a piece of tortilla and to my surprise the two Spanish girls arrived. I chatted for a while but then I moved off again to complete the second half to Calzadilla. It was very hot when I arrived at Calzadilla and finding a restaurant with a bar and outside a bright shade over some of its tables I decided to rest and let it cool a bit before continuing on. Yolanda and her friend arrived and we had a few laughs together, massaged our feet and relaxed.













We were joined by a few more peregrinos, many of whom ate in the restaurant inside. The girls were tired and I was the first to leave and as I left town I passed a donkey and three French ladies sitting in the shade of a few trees. I was to keep seeing them from now on. A donkey might carry their packs but finding grass, shelter and accommodation for him and them at times I think was a problem. It was quite hot and hard going but I passed Ledigos and got to Terradillos. I remembered stopping here before, in the albergue. I had told myself I should stop in different places this time, I thought maybe I could camp tonight, it was sunny and it could be a warm night. As always finding a flat spot and away from a village was difficult. The track was not as I remembered. It was one of the places where the route had been altered since I had walked before. I was tired when I came down to a little stream, its banks lined with trees and a small bridge over it. There was a well with a hand pump for drawing water, but a sign said it was not drinkable. I believed it, as the stream water looked a bit polluted too but it was a nice spot. Other little boards had poems and welcome sayings scribbled on them. On the top cover of the well stood a cold box, a bowl of fruit and other goodies and a donation or honesty box. I looked at putting up my tent here and thought it might just be possible but I was not too sure about it. I sat and ate my banana and drank some water as I rested on a bench in the shade, deciding what to do.
Just then an old car pulled up, inside was a young man and his wife and a small child. The young lady got out and started to replenish the oranges and bananas and I bought one from her and was given a beer by her husband James. We chatted for a while, they were both English and lived now in the next village and were doing this to help out their sparse income, while they rebuilt the old village house. I also had done this with my wife and young family in the 70's and knew how tough life like that can be, I also remembered the rewards of getting out of the rat race! But believe me, it takes a lot of guts! "We have a Mongolian tent set up in the garden come sleep in there" they generously offered. "It's what we used it when we first arrived" I was tempted but reclined the offer and said I would set up my little tent in the next field. "Ok, but if there is anything you want, call by, you know where we live, the house with the green door!" They piled back in the old motor and shunted it round, and bumped their way up the muddy track, going out the way they had come into this remote little stream valley. The first rays of sunset were casting across the meadows as I set up my little tent alongside the path in a field of cut corn a few hundred meters after crossing the stream and climbing out that little valley.

END DAY 23 = approx. 35.3 km Sub Total = 238.3 km Total = 576.2 km

06/06/07 Ermita de San Nicolás to Villalcázar de Sirga

06/06/07

Ermita de San Nicolás to Villalcázar de Sirga

Now again my poor notes let me down. I walked on into the next village and I was with someone and we called into an albergue that has a nice bar and we had a coffee and tortilla for breakfast on the patio and another couple joined us at our table. We two left together but I am unsure who it was now, maybe Karin, I only remember walking beside the imperial canal de Castilla with her walking behind me and when we reached the lock I stopped a while, sitting and attending to my poor feet while she went on.


The canal was built in the XVIII century and was supposed to connect Castile with the Cántabros seaports but was never completed. There are 210 kms of canal left I am told and I wonder why the track doesn't follow the canal further but alas it doesn't. This quadruple lock is a beautiful spot, from here I entered the town and looked at the magnificent church but they want money to go inside, so I never went right in. The church is not used, they told me there is another built nearby that is. Is it because this was a Templers church?

I do not know and never asked! The track seemed different to my book again. I appeared to be on a stony road that went out to a small village and here I found a small bar set on a corner with shady trees. I bought a beer and slept a while. I bought and ate a fine bocadillo and chatted to the owner and his friends and just as I was leaving two Spanish girls, Yolanda
and her friend, came and sat down to rest on the grass. I went over to them and we soon all left together. We came to the main road to Frómista and from here it is a straight line into town with not a tree for shade.









I remembered walking this in the heat in 2003 and one of my bootlaces hooked on to the other boot tying my feet together! To my embarrassment I fell flat on my face alongside my companion.
As I told Yolanda the story, I quickly glanced down to see if my socks were folded over the boot hooks this time! I had two young ladies with me and didn't want it to happen again! Even today this was a hard walk, there is little to see and we were all happy to arrive and we entered the albergue there and while booking in were told to help ourselves to a bowl full of succulent cherries in water. I noticed there were very few cherries left, as we climbed the stairs to find our beds! We settled in and showered, we had a choice of cold or hot!!!

We did our washing then looked at the church and were unable to enter but the priest gave us a brilliant commentary all about it and why it was so unique. Much of his speech I have forgotten, but again it was because this was a Templers church and he insisted, the only really important one!




We found a little shop and managed to buy a few bits, just enough to cook a meal tonight. We did so in the little kitchen come dinning room, and we shared our produce and ate very well and the two girls were very good company.

END DAY 22 = approx. 28.2 km Sub Total = 203.0 km Total = 540.9 km