10/06/07 Sunday
It was absolutely pouring outside the albergue but still the crazy or hardened peregrinos left the comfort of the vestibule. I collected my washing and put it away hanging the socks that had not dried on the outside, my cape would stop them getting wetter if it was raining when I decided to go, not that I had any in
tention of leaving in this. I had a text from Maisie to say that an old friend had passed away. Not a good start to the day! The rain eased and we left. Francesca and I had found the track normally passed here but it was muddy so we went back into town and followed the arrows from there. It was a boring walk and a little confusing being the usual industrial entrance into a big town, and at times, with road works and lacking arrows.
I passed two named villages, Arcahueja and Valdefuentes.
I was then lucky enough to be piped and escorted into León by a group of pipers and traditionally dressed ladies. I left them at the bridge to continue into town, while I found a little tourist office and got a map of the town. I stopped for a coffee then as I walked further into the city I joined a crowd of peregrinos talking German. I said "Bueno camino" to them and making a lot of noise they just carried on while I now chatted to a pleasant elderly Spanish lady. Our conversation turned from peregrinos that spoke not one word of Spanish to, of course, where did I come from and of my journey on the Ebro camino. We chatted as if we had known each other for ages and in the town she apologised for having to leave to go to her daughters house to see her grand children.
"You may kiss me" she said turning her head and indicating her cheeks with her hand. I did as I was told and felt very honoured to do so. I had received the best welcome a city could give.
I found the albergue that we had stayed in before and crowds of peregrinos were waiting for it to open. I looked round the porch of the monastery and then left and looked up at the high windows of the big dorm where I had stayed. Two young nun novices were watching the people in the road and in the square opposite. I smiled up to them and was acknowledged. I thought back that I had seen not one when I stayed here before, but it had been strictly male and female dorms!
I could not stay here - too many memories. I walked on and discovered the beautiful
square
then on up to the top of the hill to the cathedral.
This time the sun refused to shine through the fantastic stained glass windows, I would just have to remember the wonderful shafts of coloured light that streamed through them when I was here before. It is a magnificent cathedral but I left now and took a coffee in a nearby bar and chatted to two men in traditional dress who looked like the ones that had played as I came into town. I was fascinated by the workmanship and colours stitched into their jackets. I took a photo of the back of one as he sat at the bar.
On my way out of town I stopped and went into another church,
the Basílica de San Isidoro, where I said my thanks again.
On leaving I had difficulty finding my way, but by asking several people I eventually found the right road. For a long way it was very built up and I stopped in a restaurant and tried the hare that was on the menu. It was ok but not something really exciting. I set off again and eventually arrived at La Virgen del Camino, where my guidebook said there was an albergue and I found it in what I think had been some sort of school at one time. It was well done and comfortable and most importantly clean. The only fault I found was that I could not find the instructions for the Micro Wave cooker!
During my walk from León I had text Vigi that I would be coming to Leon today. Vigi is an old friend that I met walking to Finisterra in 2004 and again in her hometown in 2005. I was very surprised and delighted to receive a reply saying she would meet me in an hour if I would text her where I was staying! I did so and now searched the grounds for a four-leaf clover to give her. I found one and took out one of my last koalas to give her. I know she has family here in Leon but knew she would have to drive from Oviedo to meet me and that was a good hour's drive. I sat on a bench chatting to a fellow peregrino till she arrived. I was so engrossed in conversation I didn't see her arrive but heard her call out my name and I looked up to see three ladies on the path. One was of Vigi and she was as excited to see me as I was to see her. We embraced and kissed both cheeks and I could not have been more welcomed. She then introduced me to her friends, both charming ladies. I gave Vigi her koala and the clover and she proudly showed me she still carried the clover I had given her two years ago. Arm in arm we all walked back to the main road and the bar on the corner. Here I had to tell my stories and they made a great fuss of me and I in return sung the song I wrote 'Donde va Peregrina' to them, much to the enjoyment of the rest of the patrons too. Alas Vigi said she must return to Oviedo and the two other girls who worked in the hospital in Leon must leave too. Snatching my money away and stuffing it back in my pocket they insisted on paying the bill. We now all walked to where they had parked the cars and said our goodbyes.
"One moment" said Vigi rushing over to her car. I was dumbstruck when she returned with a single peach rose for me. "For your hat" she insisted. I was overwhelmed "Gracias" was all I could say and kissed her on her cheek again. She knew I nearly always walk with a flower in my hat but never as big or as beautiful one as this rose. I waved a sad goodbye as she drove off and to the other two who now turned their car the other way towards Leon. I deliberately stepped onto the crossing to make them stop, then waved to them again after crossing still clutching my peach rose.
Villarente to La Virgen del Camino
It was absolutely pouring outside the albergue but still the crazy or hardened peregrinos left the comfort of the vestibule. I collected my washing and put it away hanging the socks that had not dried on the outside, my cape would stop them getting wetter if it was raining when I decided to go, not that I had any in
tention of leaving in this. I had a text from Maisie to say that an old friend had passed away. Not a good start to the day! The rain eased and we left. Francesca and I had found the track normally passed here but it was muddy so we went back into town and followed the arrows from there. It was a boring walk and a little confusing being the usual industrial entrance into a big town, and at times, with road works and lacking arrows.I passed two named villages, Arcahueja and Valdefuentes.
I was then lucky enough to be piped and escorted into León by a group of pipers and traditionally dressed ladies. I left them at the bridge to continue into town, while I found a little tourist office and got a map of the town. I stopped for a coffee then as I walked further into the city I joined a crowd of peregrinos talking German. I said "Bueno camino" to them and making a lot of noise they just carried on while I now chatted to a pleasant elderly Spanish lady. Our conversation turned from peregrinos that spoke not one word of Spanish to, of course, where did I come from and of my journey on the Ebro camino. We chatted as if we had known each other for ages and in the town she apologised for having to leave to go to her daughters house to see her grand children.
"You may kiss me" she said turning her head and indicating her cheeks with her hand. I did as I was told and felt very honoured to do so. I had received the best welcome a city could give.
I found the albergue that we had stayed in before and crowds of peregrinos were waiting for it to open. I looked round the porch of the monastery and then left and looked up at the high windows of the big dorm where I had stayed. Two young nun novices were watching the people in the road and in the square opposite. I smiled up to them and was acknowledged. I thought back that I had seen not one when I stayed here before, but it had been strictly male and female dorms!
I could not stay here - too many memories. I walked on and discovered the beautiful
square 
then on up to the top of the hill to the cathedral.
This time the sun refused to shine through the fantastic stained glass windows, I would just have to remember the wonderful shafts of coloured light that streamed through them when I was here before. It is a magnificent cathedral but I left now and took a coffee in a nearby bar and chatted to two men in traditional dress who looked like the ones that had played as I came into town. I was fascinated by the workmanship and colours stitched into their jackets. I took a photo of the back of one as he sat at the bar.
On my way out of town I stopped and went into another church,
the Basílica de San Isidoro, where I said my thanks again.
On leaving I had difficulty finding my way, but by asking several people I eventually found the right road. For a long way it was very built up and I stopped in a restaurant and tried the hare that was on the menu. It was ok but not something really exciting. I set off again and eventually arrived at La Virgen del Camino, where my guidebook said there was an albergue and I found it in what I think had been some sort of school at one time. It was well done and comfortable and most importantly clean. The only fault I found was that I could not find the instructions for the Micro Wave cooker!
During my walk from León I had text Vigi that I would be coming to Leon today. Vigi is an old friend that I met walking to Finisterra in 2004 and again in her hometown in 2005. I was very surprised and delighted to receive a reply saying she would meet me in an hour if I would text her where I was staying! I did so and now searched the grounds for a four-leaf clover to give her. I found one and took out one of my last koalas to give her. I know she has family here in Leon but knew she would have to drive from Oviedo to meet me and that was a good hour's drive. I sat on a bench chatting to a fellow peregrino till she arrived. I was so engrossed in conversation I didn't see her arrive but heard her call out my name and I looked up to see three ladies on the path. One was of Vigi and she was as excited to see me as I was to see her. We embraced and kissed both cheeks and I could not have been more welcomed. She then introduced me to her friends, both charming ladies. I gave Vigi her koala and the clover and she proudly showed me she still carried the clover I had given her two years ago. Arm in arm we all walked back to the main road and the bar on the corner. Here I had to tell my stories and they made a great fuss of me and I in return sung the song I wrote 'Donde va Peregrina' to them, much to the enjoyment of the rest of the patrons too. Alas Vigi said she must return to Oviedo and the two other girls who worked in the hospital in Leon must leave too. Snatching my money away and stuffing it back in my pocket they insisted on paying the bill. We now all walked to where they had parked the cars and said our goodbyes.
"One moment" said Vigi rushing over to her car. I was dumbstruck when she returned with a single peach rose for me. "For your hat" she insisted. I was overwhelmed "Gracias" was all I could say and kissed her on her cheek again. She knew I nearly always walk with a flower in my hat but never as big or as beautiful one as this rose. I waved a sad goodbye as she drove off and to the other two who now turned their car the other way towards Leon. I deliberately stepped onto the crossing to make them stop, then waved to them again after crossing still clutching my peach rose.
END DAY 26 = approx 27.3 km Sub Total = 311.6 km Total = 649.5 km
