30/05/07 Arrubal to Logroño

30/05/07

Arrubal to Logroño

I soon came to the first village Arrubal where I found a café with some workmen in it and had coffee but only packet cakes! It seemed that most of the work now was in a big industrial area I had seen as I arrived some way off to the left. Few people work the land here now, they told me.
No shops much here either I found after leaving and walking through the streets looking for the arrows, till I asked a chap getting into a tractor near the edge on the village. He pointed out a small bakers that sold some other food stuffs as well. It was open so I bought some cake and bread and 6 eggs. On the way out of town










I passed a field with some nice little ponies in it and after 4 km I walked into the next village. There was a very impressive castle on one side of the square, flags flying proudly from the battlements. I was told, in the café that I found on the far side, that I should try in the town hall (ayuntamiento) to get a stamp on my credential. Leaving this café I went over to the castle and sure enough it was the town hall
.

I went in and was amazed at the transformation inside. It was completely modern, heaps of glass fronted offices on the first floor around a courtyard below. Sorry but I hate this kind of modernisation of ancient buildings.
I climbed the staircase and in the office I was given the stamp that I wanted. It had the staff or (bordón) of the peregrino on it and a castle. I went back to where I had entered the square and followed my yellow arrows. They soon took me onto a main road and the traffic was bad and the area looked a bit run down, typical ribbon development that you find coming into a big town, but soon my arrow told me to cross over and take a side road. To get to it I had to cross over the train lines. I noted that it was now considered too dangerous for cars but ok for peregrinos. I climbed over the steel barrier and looked both ways and listened for trains then skipped rapidly across and over the opposite rail. Well this part of my camino would not have much traffic!
It was a pleasant walk through farmland and a few cherry orchards. I stopped at a track junction alongside a water channel (sequía). Here was a tree giving some shade and there was a nice rock to sit on out of the wind. A farm worker in the cherry orchard probably thought I would steal some of his cherries given a chance, but I was more interested in my eggs! I unpacked my rucksack and took out the little spirit stove, filled the pot and boiled the eggs taking two to eat now with my crusty bread and a little chorizo sausage. I was hungry and even my timing was perfect, those fresh boiled eggs were yummy. I let the others boil hard for later. A boiled egg is something you never seem to get in Spain, unless it is in a salad.
My energy renewed I proceeded towards Logroño.
It was very flat and easy walking, so I started to slow down. Once I stopped and propped the camera on a stone and got one of the few photos of myself with the colourful poppies. I knew why! I didn't want to arrive! Funny that, it had only happened before as I arrived at Santiago. I had left my companion the river Ebro. Soon I could see the town in the distance and knew that from here my camino would change dramatically. From now on I would be travelling over a camino I had travelled on before in 2003. I asked myself how I felt about that and was surprised that I felt quite a little apprehensive.
Last time here I had been with old friends and stopped in a hostel. I decided that I would stop this time in an albergue if I could. The arrows now took me there and I joined a line of fellow peregrinos in the entrance. Here the cards were being stamped and bed numbers distributed and paid for. Two men were supervising. The elderly one, a German I think, came over to help me remove my pack. To say the least he got a surprise.
"That's ridiculous you are carrying to much weight!"
It was his tone that I didn't like so I retaliated
"If you had walked the Ebro camino that I have just done you would! Everything in there has been used. I have only slept four times under a roof in the 350 km that I have walked from Tortosa!"
He probably objected to my tone and said
"Oh I'm sure I could reduce it by half!"
I backed off and let him get on with it. I must not get in a fight now I had found company. I knew there was a few things in there, but not much and it was right what I had said, I had used everything. Oh I know I should have thrown out my sun glasses after I had lost the lens from the right eye. Funny how cussed you can get about throwing things away. It must be something about carrying all your possessions in that one sack, and in the weeks to come I was to find I would get more so yet.
Getting my stamp and bed number I climbed the stairs and entered the male dormitory. It was crowded and I was told my bed number was in the far corner. To get to it I had to remove my rucksack and lift it high above my head (17klos of it chuckle!) and squeeze between beds and half disrobed males. When getting to the outside wall in front, I had to rest the pack on my head, close the window (they open inwards) slide sideways past the end of a bunk bed to my left and the next pair. There against the side wall was my bunk, the top one. A small table was wedged between mine and the opposite bunk, against a partition that went across the head ends but only as high as the top bunk plus 20 centimetres. Over the top of that was another little room. Your head and your neighbour's head in the other little room, were just inches apart and I thought I'd be lucky if he didn't snore! The rucksack had to stand on the floor jammed against the table
Luckily I managed to shower and change before any roommates arrived. With three more men and their gear in this tiny space things later got worse.
I went downstairs and in the entrance I managed to get on the Internet using one of the computers that were supplied for your use for a donation. It took some while to do my post as I had been unable to get on since I left Barcelona. Now I had to find my way around town. I got a town map from my 'friend' the attendant!
I thought I would remember the town and much of it I did, but was grateful of the map as I remembered the main street and cathedral but would have been lost in the back streets.
I had had three great friends with me when I came here last time and two of us had gone through a homesick session. All four of us had hit the town, had a great meal and got plastered. It felt strange now as I came to the cathedral to be here again. I saw a hardware store (ferretera) so went to buy new rubbers for my sticks. I asked where to find a bank, drew some cash, then bought some bread and chorizo. Coming back down the main street I met a German that I had seen before in the albergue and I joined him in a beer. We spent a pleasant time sitting in the sun joking about getting the language muddled. You see, when I met him I had gone into the bar intending to ask the waiter 'Is there waiter service at the outside tables or should I order at the inside bar?' but had blurted out instead "Is there servicios outside?" (servicios is toilets!!)
We went back to the albergue and I asked the attendant to recommend a place to eat and was pointed out a doorway where a lady was standing. The new German friend agreed to meet later and to eat there. When I looked later to my surprise it was a food shop not a restaurant so I had got it wrong again! I came back in and met my new friend and we went to meet some of his friends and found a restaurant. Here I was the only Spanish speaking person and was sent inside to find out the menu and if we could sit outside in the small square at the tables there. The waiter explained to me the peregrinos menu was 9E inside but 12E outside! I returned and it became a joke that they would take this idea home to Germany make more money there, charging more to sit on the pavement!
We took the cheaper option and were given a table inside. I wish I could remember their names. One I think was, Ami, Lidia, Listel, Katarina, Mary, Guillermo? They were names not so easy for me to remember, so I may be wrong on some. I remember we were to meet a Mary so that one is right. There were 7 of us and we had a great time, most spoke good English. On leaving we arranged to meet here in the morning at seven thirty.
The neighbour did snore, as did a great number of the dorm that night!

END DAY 15 = approx. 15.5 km Total = 337.9 km according to book

31/05/07

Logroño to Nájera

I was not very early up so was late arriving at the café only to see it was closed anyway. I left and was soon passing the reservoir that I remembered from before. Today there was a number of fishermen enjoying their pastime in the cool morning air.
The hills started and I was enjoying the company of a Scandinavian lady. I was in a bit of a strange mood as I was spending too much time remembering all the things that happened before when I walked this way with Biel an Luke. I see now I never took many photos, preferring to remember it as it had been, not what I saw now. This was almost a new experience for me to walk over my old camino path. I had done it a little before near Santiago, but never here. I do believe it spoilt my day. For this is great country but I remember little of what I saw. To make this camino different from the old journey, I decided to try to stop in different towns most of the time if I could. Naverrete was the first small town I came too, I had stopped in a hostel here with Biel before. This time I was with Francesca and we stopped for coffee at a bar that was busy with peregrinos. We sat in the sun and drank our coffees outside. Everywhere I looked building work was going on. I was shocked to see a vaulted street that I had walked through and thought so incredible unique and beautiful was now blocked off. A new albergue was being created in the old building above and was filling in the very street that had been there, so it become part of the albergue! Progress is not always good! We entered the church to look around as I saw the door was open. It was very dark and I took a photo and said my usual thanks.
This time it was not the choir practice day that had made my last entrance to this church so wonderful, old memories were intruding again. We left town and soon started climbing into the hills. I don’t remember where I met her or how but I was now walking with the charming Katarina Palagová. I know I was for I have the photos we took of each other. You see as we climbed, we came to a place where peregrinos have put stones on top of each other. There were hundreds of these little piles and some big ones too. It was, I believe, the way the camino was marked in the old days. We both placed stones on top of other stones as we went up like so many have done, and as I had done once before. Here we stopped and took those photos of each other meaning to send each a copy but sadly her Email I have is wrong and won't work, so I am unable too!












Ventosa and the Alto de San Antón then down into Nájera was fourteen km.














I came into this town remembering how bad my feet had been before and they were bad this time too. I had stopped here but that time in an old Albergue in a back street, this time we got a newer building. My chores done and clean and refreshed again, I walked into town and bought new rubbers for my stick-ends and ate a few tapas. I came back to the albergue, moved my washing into the weak sun and met again some of the German friends. We sat outside and I spent a lot of time telling the new ones of my hardships and mishap's on the Ebro way. We walked back into the town looking for a restaurant that would please all the gang. This turned out to be quite difficult. At last we returned to the first place we had looked at! The barman found a table for us and we all settled in and we had a lot of laughs over a dinner of tapas and a large quantity of red wine. I was quite light headed when we returned in a heavy shower of rain, only to find luckily, the kind 'conserje' had brought all our washing inside, which we had all completely forgotten about!

END DAY 16 = approx 29 km Sub Total = 29 km Total = 366.9 km

Tues. 29/05/07 Calahorra to Arrubal

1. 

Calahorra to Arrubal

Today's step according to the guidebook, had no water for 18 kilometres so I carried three small bottles. It had not been hot that should be enough, but as I had been unable to leave the Albergue yesterday evening I had little food. I found a café for breakfast on the far side of the square, the one with the church of Santiago in it. I still had the town map and knew I was to leave by the road to Murillo. I was lucky, I asked at one large junction as I had got my bearings wrong and would have turned left instead of right. I had to turn left later and at this junction I found and took the road to Murillo, crossed the railway again and this now stayed on my left for some ten kilometres. I think it was at the end of this that I got in a bit of a muddle. I had this idea in my head that I should go under not over the line!
I had to get up onto the big flyover that crossed my path and cross over the line using this then find the camino again on the other side. I was lucky as I asked a passing van driver coming down my stony track in a cloud of dust. I would have been ok if I had gone on further because there were arrows. I had tried to go under using a water channel but it was too muddy and I had given up. The track now undulated and followed the motorway. The views were great with poppies and wild flowers growing in the fields.










I decided to stop for a snack. There was a fence alongside the motorway but just ahead I saw a rest area and as there was nothing on this track of mine to sit down on I climbed the fence and sat at one of the picnic tables. I cut my very hard loaf and filled it with chorizo and a bit of cheese. Well the birds might peck at this bread but I had a lot of trouble with it. Still I might get something in the next town although my guidebook said no albergue there. I came down from the ridge I had been walking on and down into the valley. On the way I passed what I thought must be a small solar electric station under construction.
I came to the village and noticed the arrow went left and bypassed the village so I went down the street of houses opposite my turning. I came to a bar door set in the row of houses, opened it, pushed aside the beads and went in. It was a large dimly lit bar with only a couple of men in it. I asked the barman for my usual white coffee. I heaved off my rucksack and put it on a chair and sat at a table. While he was making the coffee I asked
"Can I eat here?"
"Si hombre".
"You can leave your rucksack by the wall at the end and eat in the restaurant. It will be safe there" he said pointing to the wall and heavy wooden double doors at the end.
He went on to say something else but I never caught what it was as I opened the restaurant doors to look. A great hubbub of sound hit my ears and I was staring into a very packed restaurant that was obviously full up with young male diners! I must have shown my surprise on my face as I closed the doors because he was laughing as he said
"Just wait a while till some come out, it shouldn’t be long."
I can only presume there was a lot of work going on in this sleepy village, maybe the new solar station!
A young woman came out from a door at the restaurant end of the bar and he told her I wanted a table as she grabbed a bottle from the shelf and returned back to the restaurant. I was given my coffee and had just finished it when two men came out and went up to the bar for coffee. A couple, I presume a workman and his partner had come into the bar from the street while I had been sitting. Now the young waitress opened the doors of the restaurant saw the couple and ushered them rapidly in. A few more diners came out before she had time to settle these two at a table by the door. Poor girl was obviously rushed off her feet but there was no panic in her eyes as she looked up and beckoned me in.
The dining room was panelled vertically with rough pine giving it a log cabin look. I presume it was this and the thick walls of the old building that sound proofed the room. My table was over by the far wall and I squeezed past the other tables but once in I had lots of room and sat with my back to the wall. On my left sat a man on his own eating a stew.

To my right towards the corner that was stacked with boxes, a large effigy of a witch with a big hooked nose stood grinning at me wide eyed! A larger round table (than those we sat at) was next on the other wall and on top stood another much smaller cutely dressed witch by a vase of flowers and behind both a very large pumpkin. Then no more tables but the kitchen door. As I said the centre and the rest of the room was filled with tables and noisy chatting men.

The waitress that I now thought of as the real young witch

asked me what I would like to drink and I asked for the local red house wine as I believed this was a place for good red wine. She brought one and one for the chap sitting at my side. She opened his bottle then he explained this was a much superior wine for a little extra. The girl looked at me and I nodded for her to bring another bottle of the better wine, the (crianza). She did and I toasted my neighbour when the girl poured it. There was no written menu. She reeled off several things and I struggled to understand and remember what they were. When she had finished I was still but a little wiser! The chap to my side saw my puzzled expression and recommended the stew he was eating.
I asked the pretty witch what it was called and was told but was still no wiser.
"What meat is it?" I asked.
She obviously struggled with that question so I said
"Toro?" (bull) as the word for beef eluded me, anyway I had an inkling it might possibly be something considered by Spaniards to be good for your manhood! Going by how much the man next to me kept saying how good it was!
"No es toro!" she laughed.
I laughed too, ok I like to try things that I have never eaten before and the orange stew looked appetising enough.
"First the fish soup, and then the stew" I said.
While I waited I took a quick photo of the witch to my right and another of the little one on the table.
The soup was very good and as I finished, up came the stew. No it wasn't beef and the texture was not like meat that I knew. I was hungry and it tasted good so I soon cleared the plate. It dawned on me it might be tripe! But how could I ask that? I would get the waitress to write it down and later look in the dictionary!
She cleared my table and brought me a nice flan. I asked for the bill and asked if she would write down what it was I had eaten and also might I take a photo of the autentico Bruja (real witch). A little embarrassed she let me take her photo. It was a great meal and a real surprise to find such a nice restaurant and charming and friendly service in such a small village. My friend at the table had also finished eating and I went to meet him in the bar and we had an orujo together before I set off on the camino again a little under the weather!
The camino shortly climbed up a hill













and on for a while alone along a lonely track with some fantastic views.

I then the came down a bit and there was a junction in the track with an arrow pointing right. My guidebook said nothing about turning right but the arrow was clear enough. I turned and went along this valley between two hills, then it descended and I came to an ermita (Chapel).
It was marked with a plaque (Nuestra Señora de Aradón). In the book it had mentioned that there might be an alternative route past an ermita Virgen de Anadón. Although spelt differently I could presume this was the same ermita, or at least I hoped I could!! At the bottom of the gully was a railway line. I turned left along the track that ran parallel with it and walked past some impressive reddish grey cliffs on my left with layers of white alabaster running through them. Big eagles were circling high up, or were they vultures waiting for passing peregrinos to drop in for lunch! chuckle!

Photo looking back Cliffs

Later on I had no alternative but to cross the railway line and take a tiny track on the right of it. It was very overgrown and I became quite worried that this might not be camino and would just fizzle out. I was also thinking of finding a campsite for the night as it was getting late. Several places were considered but with rain clouds above, each spot was discarded for one reason or other. I had no food and little water now.
I came out of the woods into farming area. There was a van over the far side some distance away but thinking the railway line must be kept to my left, because according to my mud map in the guidebook. The rail should go all the way to Logroño.
'That's if it is the same railway line that I believe it to be. Oh! I desperately hope that it is!' I thought to myself as I entered the woods again on the other side. The track was muddy but more prominent now, as the farmers must use it to get here in their van. I came to an old derelict looking farm on a rise and passed to the left of it and was happy to see the railway line over to the left again. I was now walking over what looked like moor-land. It looked like there might be a river in trees far to my right now. This tallied with the mud map. The track forked and forked again but all were heading for a distant village I could just see. It was going to be dark soon and I was so tired I could go no further. I cut across the scrub heading for a bush between the tracks and the river, thinking my little tent would not show behind it to anyone using the tracks. The bush was a wild rose and I put up the tent close to it.
In my tired state I mislaid some tent pegs so I cut off bits from the prickly rose and pointed the spiteful things with my penknife and used them. I now pulled over the plastic sheet, black side up. No one would think anything of it here if they saw it. I hoped for no rain and crawled in for the night as the lights now flickered on in the distant village! I looked again later when I had to get up for a call of nature and the village lights and the brilliant stars above looked wonderful but it was cold so I soon got back in and zipped up my tent and snuggled down again.

END DAY 14 = approx 29.7 km Total = 322.4 km according to book

28/05/07 Alfaro to Calahorra

Mon 28/05/07

Alfaro to Calahorra

I took down my washing and packed away what had dried. The rest, socks and pants, I pinned on the outside of my rucksack after all my other gear had been stowed away, only thing was, I forgot the washing line! It was left up and would catch out the next person that walked in the room! I never remembered for days till I went to use it again. "Sorry Mr policeman!!!"
I went along to the office and a nice lady policeman took the key and I set of to look for a bar to have breakfast! I asked a man and he pointed out a bar that looked closed but when I got to it and looked inside there was a barman. The coffee was good but they only had the usual pre-packed cakes. I now walked the two kilometres out of town to the Emita and took a photo of the little church where I had tried to sleep. The camino turned off to the right here and I followed the arrows.









I crossed the train line and it was not very interesting and straight, following the railway for much of the way with a wind blowing in my face. My little toe was giving me hell, and after a while, looking for a dry place to sit and not finding anything, I unloaded my rucksack, got out my first aide kit, sat on the blue metal gravel that supports the railway line. The top layer was dry fairly close to the line, and I removed my boot. I put cream and stuck plasters on the offending toe and wrapped the complete toes on that foot in a piece of chamois leather that I carry just for an occasion like this. As I carefully rolled on my sock I saw the train coming round the curve. I thought I'd be ok, and it blew its whistle and went by two or three feet from me. Crikey! I hadn't allowed for the wind or the noise!!! I huddled down trying to cover my ears. I would give fast moving trains more space next time! Back on the track again and in ten kilometres of my starting point I arrived at Rincon del Soto. I deviated into town to find a bar.

I found one that was very busy, ordered and asked a local man if it was ok for me to sit at his table, and we chatted while I ate a nice tortilla con jamón bocadillo and drank a coffee con coñac. The brandy was not for me, just for my feet I assured my companion! The omelette sandwich was so good and I guess I was hungry that I ate it all and ordered another to take with me. The bar lady cooked it and wrapped it well in tinfoil for me and I paid and put it in my bread bag that hangs on the outside of my rucksack. I found my way back and left the small town. The next twelve km were hard,












a cold head wind over open ground and my feet hurting. For quite a while I could see the town ahead and it very slowly came closer.
There's a beautiful building on the left as you come to the town, the Santuario de la Virgen del Carmen but I was too tired to go over to it to see it closer but admired it from a distance. I came to a junction and turned across a bridge into the town over the canal de Lodosa. There was a big church on my right and the main road went left but a small road could be seen climbing up just to the left of the church. I saw arrows and headed for it and up the steep road. There was a small bar on my right and I decided I badly needed a coffee if I was to continue up this hill.
There was little room for a chap with a big rucksack but I got through to the right of the counter up two steps and dumped the bag and my cape on a chair then ordered a large white coffee and a splash of brandy. It was a cosy little bar but I was the stranger and no one spoke unless they had too. Feeling stronger now I left them but first asked where the albergue was. I was told to climb the hill till I got to the flight of steps then to go up them. "It's somewhere there but we don’t know which house it is."
I did as instructed and climbed to the top but still never saw a sign or anyone to ask. All but a few steps to the top, there was an iron gate over a steel door in the building to my right. I read a small plaque, saw that this was the albergue and pressed the bell, banged on the door and made as much noise as I could when the first thing never worked. But still nothing! It was an old building with no windows at low level. A big iron gate two meters high stopped me from going through to a patio at the end, where I could see what looked like a bar entrance. I gave up and turned left and up the last few steps. To my right was a very imposing church, straight ahead an open square with seats and a few trees.

(The photo is looking back to the Albergue from here.)

I went through this square and found a Red Cross building with big glass doors. I could see a young lady at a desk but she knew nothing of the albergue.

"Have you tried the council building opposite?" she asked.

I found another large glass door in the old building that I thought she meant and went in. An entrance hall with steps down to a lounge with nice blue velvet armchairs and a coffee table but no one about!
I called out "Ola"
A voice sounded down the stairs on my left. I climbed them glad of my two staffs. In front of me a small counter and a young woman asked what I wanted and I explained.
"Well I know very little about it but I can ring for you" she offered and went back to her desk and phoned.
Coming back she said,
"The man said he would come to open it later, if you would like to walk into town and find something to eat, by the time you get back it will be open. Would you like to leave your pack here? I will probably be gone but I will leave a message with my co-worker that it's yours and where to find it."
I accepted her offer and she came through the flap in the counter, unlocked a door on the side and said
"It will be safe locked in here."
I now asked,
"How do I get to the part of town where there might be a restaurant?"
She gave me a map and instructions. Well prepared I now left.
I was at the very highest point of town I believed and reading the map carefully proceeded down the narrow streets till about half way down the hill, I came to a junction I turned right and went up again at right angles. I made sure I understood every change of direction and found the map very useful. I was also glad I had left my rucksack behind, this was hard work even without it! 'People here would be very fit' I thought!
I now found myself walking into a big square and realised I was now at the top of this hill. On my right was the imposing church dedicated to Santiago,I could see the restaurant she had recommended on its left but could see from here it was closed. As the church door was open, I decided to enter the church, too often they are locked! I went in and it was a beautiful church with lots of guilt and gold with a few lights on, giving a warm cosy feeling. It was very quiet and I was, as far as I could see, the only person here.
As you know my camino had been hard and lonely this year. I am now right up the top of the Ebro camino and in Calahorra. I am hungry and tired waiting for an albergue to open. I have walked into this church on the spur of the moment, to say my thanks for getting me this far and to thank all those people who had helped me. I went near to the front and knelt in the pews and bowed my head, said my thanks. I had not felt as comfortable in any of the churches on my way here. There were, as far as I could see, no candles I could light. Nothing but a warm cosy feeling and as I came out I felt good. I had found a friend here! Daft I know but that's how it felt and for weeks afterwards could feel comfort when alone as if he (Santiago) was beside me and I often sang words something more or less on the lines of this poem. I call it
On the Ebro Camino with my friend Santiago

On the Ebro
Santiago walked with me!
For I found peace and tranquillity.
I'd come so far and my feet were sore
when we two met, by a studded door.
Calahorra was the place we met.
It still feels strange and weird as yet.
He was there, but you couldn't see

but I knew that he walked close to me.
This was a friend now by my side
a companion that doesn't have to hide.
The yellow arrows were always clear
while I knew him and could feel him near
On the Ebro

I have shared this poem a few times with some of my old and some new peregrino friends I was to meet afterwards. One dear friend commented when I said it must sound daft!

"Thank you for the poem, I think I know how you felt and it is never daft!! Hard to say maybe it was the mystery of friendship that touched you while you were there, thanking and thinking of your friends. Anyway this old peregrino Santiago knows how you feel when you are lonely, hungry and tired as you put all that down, near the rucksack and go and thank him and have a thought for your friends!"

I have had spiritual and strange things touch me on camino before but this was one of the few times away from the line of the French camino and Finisterra. Now I question, how wide would this line be? After all it is said some pilgrims on the French route passed through Calahorra on their way to Santiago!


I came out of the church and stood by that large door thinking for a moment. Hunger made my thoughts return to my quest of coming here in the first place to eat.
Looking round I found in the narrow street to the left an Andalucía tapas bar. I felt I wanted something more, a full meal. I went back to the square and asked a man and was told to try the restaurant on the other side of the square. This was closed too! I realised it must be that time of day. Ok so back to the pretend Andalucían bar where I had a beer and piece of potato omelette (tortilla español). Nothing else in the glass case looked very freshly cooked, most were sea food and mussels can be a risk if just warmed up I think, so I left still hungry and headed back hoping to get in the albergue. It was time my luck changed, I'm thinking as I carefully negotiated the narrow streets and climbed back up to the Council office. My first assistant had gone but the new lady was just as helpful. No, she had heard nothing about the albergue but she would phone for me again. After the phone conversation she returned to the counter and said the man would come as soon as he could. If I would like to go down stairs and wait in the lounge he would be here in a short while. I got her to unlock the room where my rucksack was and took it below to the lounge to wait.
I had completely forgotten other people have to eat too! This was siesta time for the Spanish here!
I made myself comfortable on the chairs and I dozed for a while. I was disturbed from my doze when the door opened and a man entered, stopped at the stairs and then turned to me
"Are you the peregrino?" He didn't sound too happy to be there.
"Er yes that’s me."
"Come follow me".
He returned to the door and waited while I got my rucksack and staffs and followed him out. Crossing the square he asked where I had walked from and his tone softened as I explained I had walked from Tortosa near Tarragona.
We got to the albergue and he produced a set of keys and proceeded to open it and we entered the small lobby and turned into a large high room with a reception desk. But the thing that struck me was the opulence of the place we had entered. In front were huge glass doors with crests and flowery patterns etched on them, everything look brand new. I seemed to be in a four star hotel! He asked for my credential and took the details and I explained it only showed from Tudela as that was the first place I had been able to get one but that I had other stamps in my guide book.
"No problema, Tortosa dicho?" and he entered it in the book. I was then escorted upstairs and shown a nice clean room with three single beds, the spotless bathroom was adjoining.







"Have you eaten" he asked
"No all I could find was tapas in town"
"Ok you clean up then come downstairs. Go through the glass doors into the restaurant."
"I have time to shower"?
"Yes I'll ring the bell"
Left on my own I could not believe my new found luck. The shower was fabulous, hot and easy to control, I soaked and lathered in luxury dried and put on clean clothes. Well my trousers were the same ones, I had only one pair of long pants! I had walked at times in shorts and managed to wash them but not too recently!



I heard the bell as I pulled on my last bits and quickly slipped on my flip-flop sandals and went down. My new acquaintance was at the superbly well stocked bar. What would you like to drink he said.
"A red wine please"
Asking my preference as to dry or sweet, he selected a very fine Rioja wine and de-corked it and poured me a long stemmed crystal glass full! Then he discussed the best wines to drink here - I was beginning to like this place! He turned and placed a large dish of green olives on the counter.
"What would you like to eat fish or meat"
"Oh! Err, meat please" I said through a mouthful of delightful olives!
"Pork, lamb, or veal?"
"Veal please "
"Ok won't be long" and he disappeared into the large kitchen that I could see through a door behind the bar. Shortly he came back and set a table for one and invited me to sit. Fine wine, superb surroundings, spotless white tablecloths, crystal glasses. I must be dreaming!
"Thank you" said I, taking a sip of the glass of red nectar.
He soon returned and carefully spooned two extremely large veal cutlets onto my plate and a great heap of chips, then placed the empty tray on the bar counter.
I asked him to join me in a glass of wine and he agreed, retrieved a glass and filled it, and sat on a nearby barstool with his glass of the Rioja. We chatted while I ate and time flew. The building as I understood him to say, belonged the university and was used by Spain's finest orchestras and guests when they came here to play and study. He was also studying music at university.
'Good God Pavoroti might have stayed here!!!!' I thought suitably impressed.
No wonder he had been peeved at having to open up this building for one scruffy peregrino!
He went on to say he was married and his wife was at home in Madrid. He tried to get home as much as possible, and he went on to ask if I was married. The conversation then covered my family and my five caminos in Spain till the bottle was almost empty.
"Your choice of sweet - yoghurt, flan or ice cream? I chose icecream.
"I must go" he apologised looking at his watch.
He disappeared into the kitchen and returned with my desert.
"I have to leave. Will you be staying inside as I can't leave you the key?"
"All I want to do is sleep after that superb meal and I shall leave early in the morning."
"Ok just make sure the door is properly closed when you leave. A cleaner will wash up!" "Ok, I'll just leave the things on the bar." I said.
It was early but with that big meal inside of me I would sleep well tonight!

END DAY 13 = 22.3 kms Total = 292.7 kms according to book

Sat 26/05/07 Bocal to Tudela

Sat 26/05/07

Bocal to Tudela

As I left I took some photos of the gatehouse and read the guidebook, this was a palace of Carlos the 5th and prison of Pignatelli, a good place to rest before walking the last five kilometres to the city of Tudela, said my guidebook. The good place to rest tickled my sense of humour. I would have an easy day and take a day off in the city I thought.

I crossed the bridge and travelled down the left bank of the canal, therefore I never saw much of the palace or the park, and again arrows didn't comply with the book as far as I could see! I came to the railway bridge at the entrance to Tudela and stopped in the centre because the guidebook said from here I should see the pilgrims refuge and also see the bronze markers put to guide the peregrino. I saw nothing!!
I crossed the bridge and turned right and got to where I was supposed to see arrows or something, nothing. Ok, must be in this general direction. Then I saw one and came to an albergue but the gates were bolted and not a soul to ask. It looked as if it had been deserted for some time. There was a number to phone but no one answered. I was out of luck again. I set off into the town centre and here found arrows and a tourist office near the cathedral. I asked in Spanish but she spoke perfect English. I was supplied with a town map and she marked where I could hopefully find accommodation. Also for a Euro she sold me a Pilgrims Credential. At last I had got one!!!! She explained here there was an albergue run by the Red Cross, but that was for tramps and down and outs I gathered. I might loose more cash there I decided. The Fonda close by looked more promising, I would go there first.
I found the area but the bar that I was supposed to ask in was closed. A Welshman said he also wanted a room as he had stayed one night but had decided to stay one more, but the café was closed and he didn't know what he could do. I speak reasonable Spanish so I tried asking in the dress shop next door. The girl in there was helpful and came out and said I should try the door in between hers and the bar. She came with me and pushed the intercom bell. A female voice asked what we wanted and the young lady said a man wanted a room. The door clicked unlocked and I opened it. The door opened into a staircase and I climbed the stairs. The woman's voice called down something but I had got nearly to the top and continued up till I could see her standing holding a door half-open. I asked her if there was a room for me.
Pushing a young child that was holding onto her leg inside she exclaimed
"Not for you" and slammed the door in my face.
I stood there dumb struck for a moment then turned and went down. The Welshman was still there and I told him what had happened.
"Wow! You had better go back to the tourist office I suppose."
This I did and I unloaded my rucksack on to the floor while I waited for the girl to finish with the person before me.
I explained what had happened
"Oh dear" she said "you should not use the word Robo that means I robbed!"
Good God! I found myself telling her what had happened in Barcelona in English. Again she said
"Never use the word 'Robo' say 'y saca mi dinero!' I will phone for you" she said picking up the phone.
"Go back now" she said.
As I was getting my pack on and collecting my sticks the Welshman ran in and said
"The bar is open I have my room but you should hurry!"
I went back and now sure enough the bar was open. I went in and asked the barman and I paid and was given a key to a room in a house opposite on the first floor! The Welshman Mel was in the room next door. Later we swapped story's he was cycling from Coruña to Tarragona sea to sea. I wished him luck!
"Can't help with names of places to stay but if you keep to the main road you should find some hostels ok" I said tongue in cheek! I spent most of the afternoon looking round the old town and it had many interesting streets and of course the cathedral.














I saw a newly married couple having their wedding photos taken and also a young girl's communion. I took a few nice photos of both.
















Also there was an interesting market in a square that had games for children to play as well as the market stalls. I watched for a while. Children tried to walk on wooden skis or swing a ball on a pole to knock down skittles and other games.
I left and found a bank and got more Euro's for the next stage of my journey. I ate tapas in several bars for a meal this used several of them! Coffee was taken with nice cakes in a baker's come coffee shop near the market. It is fairly unusual in Spain to find chairs and tables and the chance to eat the gorgeous cream cakes and pastries with a coffee. Coffee is usually found in a bar or restaurant, although breakfast can be fresh delivered pastries or croissant in a bar, but quite often now a days pre-packed factory type fairy cakes and supermarket pastries are more usual.

END DAY 11 = 5.2 Kms Total = 251.9 kms according to book

Sun 27/05/07

Tudela to Alfaro

I walked out of Tudela ok, as I had looked at the shells in the pavement yesterday. I found the railway and went under it and turned left and walked the track parallel with it. A man was standing by his car and told me the track was private and led only to the small gardens that were on my right but I had seen arrows and knew I was right, so thanked him but said what I was doing and kept straight on. The track stayed by the railway for some while, then at the council depot, arrows took me out to the right and I neared the river. I stopped at a garden hut and sat on a brick seat and drank half a litre of milk I had been carrying. I must admit the energy returned, and I managed to do this several mornings afterwards. I left the hut and its shelter from the cool wind. It was hard going and I knew by the direction, I was being given a so-called prettier way to go. A pilgrim is more interested in getting from A to B unless it is the original camino or stunningly beautiful! This way turned out to be very ordinary, flat farmland and trees by the river and rough farm tracks and poorly marked.
I had to take a chance several times on which path to take. I came to a fork in the track with no marker straight ahead and which looked unused but so was my camino. I turned left and it soon bent round going back the way I had come! But then it turned to the right again over a rise. Should I go back or keep going? I thought 'go to the rise and look over' and this I did. From the top I could see the railway power lines crossing left to right. My rough track headed over to them. The book said the camino followed the railway so I'd get over to them. I came to them and the track turned again back towards Tudela!! But I could see a bridge and on the other side of the railway, a road ran back towards me on the other side of the railway line. Ok I walked to the bridge and crossed over turned north again, this time on the other side of the railway track passing where I had looked and seen the bridge. I realised I could have walked by the railway all the way and got to here in half the time and distance that I had tramped!
Now I had miles of straight gravel road in front of me.
I met a man running towards me and later he passed me again, going back home I presume. I must be near civilisation I thought as he disappeared! I came to Castejon and my feet were bad and hurting but I felt ok just mainly tired and very hungry!
It was a nice little town and being Sunday folk were milling around and sitting at tables in the square but as far as I could see they were only drinking. On a corner I saw a Burger bar but it looked as if I could only get bocadillos or burger at the most. I asked two women standing outside if there was a restaurant or bar I could get a real meal, not bocadillos. "There is a restaurant but why not here!" they said pointing to the little bar in front of us.
"They will serve you what you want and cheaper"
"OK I'll try it thank you." I replied.
I went in up to the counter and while I waited to be served I got chatting to three men by who asked why the big pack. I told them I had walked four caminos and was walking this one from Tortosa to Santiago as my fifth. I showed them the camino names carved on my staff. They were really friendly and the lady behind the bar was obviously listening as I told how hard this one had been, what with the bad weather and being the only daft Australian peregrino to walk it I joked. She turned and asked me what I wanted. I said a large white coffee and she turned to make it and continued to listen and joined in the conversation. Giving me the coffee she asked if there was anything else and I explained I was hungry. She immediately offered bocadillos of every description.
"Well what I would really like is meat and some potatoes or chips as I have had bocadillos nearly everyday!" I was exaggerating but I was fed up with so much bread. I beamed when she said
"I would cook some if you would like to wait a moment, chicken, pork or veal?"
I chose the veal. Excusing myself I chose a table and removed my rucksack and put it on a chair, got my coffee and sat at the table. As I did this I removed a Koala. The men came over and stood near and we chatted again till the lady returned with a huge plate on which were two huge pieces of veal and piled high with chips. I gave her the Koala as a thank you, and asked for another coffee. I got my coffee and ate every scrap of the meal, but before I could finish she placed a large bowl of cherries in front of me. I had not eaten like this since I arrived In Spain. The bar was quite full now and my new friends stood around the table talking and the bar lady too. Now finished and full I thanked her and said
"That’s the best meal I've had for ages how much do I owe?"
I could see she was slightly embarrassed as she said
"Nada" (nothing). I could see my protest and offers of payment were making her more so. I rose accepted her gift and said
"I'll hug the Santo for you when I get to Santiago." She smiled and nodded. All waved as I left. Does this moment make up for all the hardships of this camino? Yes, I thought, as I left to find the next yellow arrows.
I arrived in Alfaro and a building that was possibly an albergue was closed up!











I asked a man and he said it was in town and asked if I was the man that had rang? I said no I hadn't but needed a bed for the night. We walked into the town and he suddenly excused himself and went into a house. I was a bit puzzled but I had not understood all he said. I had a coffee in a bar and asked for the albergue again and was told to continue and turn right I would find it. Anyway this I did and came to the large studded door of a three-story building marked albergue. It was closed and I banged on it. It opened by a young lady, I asked if there was a bed for a peregrino.
"No" she said turning and looking at the young man behind her.
I tried again for I thought this was supposed to be a youth hostel albergue.
"I am walking to Santiago and am sixty-seven and just need a bed for the night, It looks like rain."
"We are full" she said pointing to two bikes at the other side of the large slate floored entrance hall.
"The floor will do, I have everything I need to sleep."
"No we are full!"
She was closing the door
"Thank you for your help" I said with a bit of malice in my voice.
Camping again I suppose I thought as I found my way out of town following the Logroño highway. I walked about two km passing tile factories and found some soft light plastic foam sheeting, used to wrap them, in a ditch. It was clean so I rolled it up thinking it might help when I camped. I then came to an ermita. I went to it-it was locked as normal. There were flowers on the wrought iron entrance but the porch was open on two sides. The clouds were rolling in black again. It was early but this porch could make a comfortable shelter for the night. I tried the house behind but could find no one to ask. I unpacked and rolled out the new foam on the tile floor. I would use the tent as a cover for my sleeping bag which it had been made for, put in my sleeping bag and retired.


I had almost dosed off when a car pulled up and a man came over and before he couls speak I asked if it was ok to sleep here. He said no problem but thought I might be cold. I told him my sleeping bag was a good one but my tent was not good enough should it storm. He said goodbye and drove off and I snuggled down again and awoke soon to heavy rain. It was not coming into my part of the porch so I was happy. when I saw the car return and the chap said he had found an albergue for me if I would like to move, and he said he would drive me there. I guessed he was uncomfortable for me to stay here so I packed up and went with him. He said there were two types of albergue, one for workers that travelled to pick crops and another for peregrinos. He thought I had gone to the wrong one. I thought they at least could have told me this at the albergue when I knocked, not just turn me away. I still have my doubts on this but if true it might explain some of the other closed albergues.
I packed the rucksack again and he drove me back into the town. In the square he parked near the police station and said wait here I was and he got out and came back with a policeman!
He got out my rucksack and I was signalled to follow them. We crossed the road and entered an office. At the desk the policeman asked for my new credential and stamped it (I had two stamps now!) and he took my details, passport number etc. He then gave me a key with instructions what to do to return it in the morning. We came out and went to the end building and opened a glass door with bars on and there were bars on the windows on each side too. The door opened into a room with a table and chairs where one could eat, and through that room to a kitchen. In here was a gas heater but it wouldn't light, so there was no hot water. Off this were the toilet and shower and a bedroom with a couple of bunk beds. There was more beds upstairs he said if I would prefer to be there.
"No, this will do fine" I said and both wished me well and left me to settle in.
I realised this was the old prison that was why there was bars on all the windows, to stop people getting out not in!!! Still I had the key! It was quite clean and nice compared to some albergues.
I took a freezing shower and washed my shirts and socks, then stretched my washing line across the kitchen and pinned them up to dry. I also used the shower to wash off the plastic sheet that I had used in the dirty wash place in Bocal as it now stank of cats! The plastic sheet now smelt a bit better but the shower didn't!!! There was no room on my wash line so I hang it in the shower to dry. My washing line was neck high and I had to duck under it to get to the front room but those were the only hooks I could find! I locked the door and chose my bunk and went to bed for the second time that night.

END DAY 12 = 18.5Kms Total = 270.4 kms according to book