Sat 26/05/07
As I left I took some photos of the gatehouse and read the guidebook, this was a palace of Carlos the 5th and prison of Pignatelli, a good place to rest before walking the last five kilometres to the city of Tudela, said my guidebook. The good place to rest tickled my sense of humour. I would have an easy day and take a day off in the city I thought.
I crossed the bridge and travelled down the left bank of the canal, therefore I never saw much of the palace or the park, and again arrows didn't comply with the book as far as I could see! I came to the railway bridge at the entrance to Tudela and stopped in the centre because the guidebook said from here I should see the pilgrims refuge and also see the bronze markers put to guide the peregrino. I saw nothing!!
I crossed the bridge and turned right and got to where I was supposed to see arrows or something, nothing. Ok, must be in this general direction. Then I saw one and came to an albergue but the gates were bolted and not a soul to ask. It looked as if it had been deserted for some time. There was a number to phone but no one answered. I was out of luck again.
I set off into the town centre and here found arrows and a tourist office near the cathedral. I asked in Spanish but she spoke perfect English. I was supplied with a town map and she marked where I could hopefully find accommodation. Also for a Euro she sold me a Pilgrims Credential. At last I had got one!!!! She explained here there was an albergue run by the Red Cross, but that was for tramps and down and outs I gathered. I might loose more cash there I decided. The Fonda close by looked more promising, I would go there first.
I found the area but the bar that I was supposed to ask in was closed. A Welshman said he also wanted a room as he had stayed one night but had decided to stay one more, but the café was closed and he didn't know what he could do. I speak reasonable Spanish so I tried asking in the dress shop next door. The girl in there was helpful and came out and said I should try the door in between hers and the bar. She came with me and pushed the intercom bell. A female voice asked what we wanted and the young lady said a man wanted a room. The door clicked unlocked and I opened it. The door opened into a staircase and I climbed the stairs. The woman's voice called down something but I had got nearly to the top and continued up till I could see her standing holding a door half-open. I asked her if there was a room for me.
Pushing a young child that was holding onto her leg inside she exclaimed
"Not for you" and slammed the door in my face.
I stood there dumb struck for a moment then turned and went down. The Welshman was still there and I told him what had happened.
"Wow! You had better go back to the tourist office I suppose."
This I did and I unloaded my rucksack on to the floor while I waited for the girl to finish with the person before me.
I explained what had happened
"Oh dear" she said "you should not use the word Robo that means I robbed!"
Good God! I found myself telling her what had happened in Barcelona in English. Again she said
"Never use the word 'Robo' say 'y saca mi dinero !' I will phone for you" she said picking up the phone.
"Go back now" she said.
As I was getting my pack on and collecting my sticks the Welshman ran in and said
"The bar is open I have my room but you should hurry!"
I went back and now sure enough the bar was open. I went in and asked the ba 
rman and I paid and was given a key to a room in a house opposite on the first floor! T he Welshman Mel was in the room next door. Later we swapped story's he was cycling from Coruña to Tarragona sea to sea. I wished him luck!
"Can't help with names of places to stay but if you keep to the main road you should find some hostels ok" I said tongue in cheek! I spent most of the afternoon looking round the old town and it had many interesting streets and of course the cathedral.
I saw a newly married couple having their wedding photos taken and also a young girl's communion. I took a few nice photos of both.
Also there was an interesting market in a square that had games for children to play as well as the market stalls. I watched for a while. Children tried to walk on wooden skis or swing a ball on a pole to knock down skittles and other games.
I left and found a bank and got more Euro's for the next stage of my journey. I ate tapas in several bars for a meal this used several of them! Coffee was taken with nice cakes in a baker's come coffee shop near the market. It is fairly unusual in Spain to find chairs and tables and the chance to eat the gorgeous cream cakes and pastries with a coffee. Coffee is usually found in a bar or restaurant, although breakfast can be fresh delivered pastries or croissant in a bar, but quite often now a days pre-packed factory type fairy cakes and supermarket pastries are more usual.
I walked out of Tudela ok, as I had looked at the shells in the pavement yesterday. I found the railway and went under it and turned left and walked the track parallel with it. A man was standing by his car and told me the track was private and led only to the small gardens that were on my right but I had seen arrows and knew I was right, so thanked him but said what I was doing and kept straight on. The track stayed by the railway for some while, then at the council depot, arrows took me out to the right and I neared the river. I stopped at a garden hut and sat on a brick seat and drank half a litre of milk I had been carrying. I must admit the energy returned, and I managed to do this several mornings afterwards. I left the hut and its shelter from the cool wind. It was hard going and I knew by the direction, I was being given a so-called prettier way to go. A pilgrim is more interested in getting from A to B unless it is the original camino or stunningly beautiful! This way turned out to be very ordinary, flat farmland and trees by the river and rough
farm tracks and poorly marked.
I had to take a chance several times on which path to take. I came to a fork in the track with no marker straight ahead and which looked unused but so was my camino. I turned left and it soon bent round going back the way I had come! But then it turned to the right again over a rise. Should I go back or keep going? I thought 'go to the rise and look over' and this I did. From the top I could see the railway power lines crossing left to right. My rough track headed over to them. The book said the camino followed the railway so I'd get over to them. I came to them and the track turned again back towards Tudela!! But I could see a bridge and on the other side of the railway, a road ran back towards me on the other side of the railway line. Ok I walked to the bridge and crossed over turned north again, this time on the other side of the railway track passing where I had looked and seen the bridge. I realised I could have walked by the railway all the way and got to here in half the time and distance that I had tramped!
Now I had miles of straight gravel road in front of me.
I met a man running towards me and later he passed me again, going back home I presume. I must be near civilisation I thought as he disappeared! I came to Castejon and my feet were bad and hurting but I felt ok just mainly tired and very hungry!
It was a nice little town and being Sunday folk were milling around and sitting at tables in the square but as far as I could see they were only drinking. On a corner I saw a Burger bar but it looked as if I could only get bocadillos or burger at the most. I asked two women standing outside if there was a restaurant or bar I could get a real meal, not bocadillos. "There is a restaurant but why not here!" they said pointing to the little bar in front of us.
"They will serve you what you want and cheaper"
"OK I'll try it thank you." I replied.
I went in up to the counter and while I waited to be served I got chatting to three men by who asked why the big pack. I told them I had walked four caminos and was walking this one from Tortosa to Santiago as my fifth. I showed them the camino names carved on my staff. They were really friendly and the lady behind the bar was obviously listening as I told how hard this one had been, what with the bad weather and being the only daft Australian peregrino to walk it I joked. She turned and asked me what I wanted. I said a large white coffee and she turned to make it and continued to listen and joined in the conversation. Giving me the coffee she asked if there was anything else and I explained I was hungry. She immediately offered bocadillos of every description.
"Well what I would really like is meat and some potatoes or chips as I have had bocadillos nearly everyday!" I was exaggerating but I was fed up with so much bread. I beamed when she said
"I would cook some if you would like to wait a moment, chicken, pork or veal?"
I chose the veal. Excusing myself I chose a table and removed my rucksack and put it on a chair, got my coffee and sat at the table. As I did this I removed a Koala. The men came over and stood near and we chatted again till the lady returned with a huge plate on which were two huge pieces of veal and piled high with chips. I gave her the Koala as a thank you, and asked for another coffee. I got my coffee and ate every scrap of the meal, but before I could finish she placed a large bowl of cherries in front of me. I had not eaten like this since I arrived In Spain. The bar was quite full now and my new friends stood around the table talking and the bar lady too. Now finished and full I thanked her and said
"That’s the best meal I've had for ages how much do I owe?"
I could see she was slightly embarrassed as she said
"Nada" (nothing). I could see my protest and offers of payment were making her more so. I rose accepted her gift and said
"I'll hug the Santo for you when I get to Santiago." She smiled and nodded. All waved as I left. Does this moment make up for all the hardships of this camino? Yes, I thought, as I left to find the next yellow arrows.
I arrived in Alfaro and a building that was possibly an albergue was closed up!
I asked a man and he said it was in town and asked if I was the man that had rang? I said no I hadn't but needed a bed for the night. We walked into the town and he suddenly excused himself and went into a house. I was a bit puzzled but I had not understood all he said. I had a coffee in a bar and asked for the albergue again and was told to continue and turn right I would find it. Anyway this I did and came to the large studded door of a three-story building marked albergue. It was closed and I banged on it. It opened by a young lady, I asked if there was a bed for a peregrino.
"No" she said turning and looking at the young man behind her.
I tried again for I thought this was supposed to be a youth hostel albergue.
"I am walking to Santiago and am sixty-seven and just need a bed for the night, It looks like rain."
"We are full" she said pointing to two bikes at the other side of the large slate floored entrance hall.
"The floor will do, I have everything I need to sleep."
"No we are full!"
She was closing the door
"Thank you for your help" I said with a bit of malice in my voice.
Camping again I suppose I thought as I found my way out of town following the Logroño highway. I walked about two km passing tile factories and found some soft light plastic foam sheeting, used to wrap them, in a ditch. It was clean so I rolled it up thinking it might help when I camped. I then came to an ermita. I went to it-it was locked as normal. There were flowers on the wrought iron entrance but the porch was open on two sides. The clouds were rolling in black again. It was early but this porch could make a comfortable shelter for the night. I tried the house behind but could find no one to ask. I unpacked and rolled out the new foam on the tile floor. I would use the tent as a cover for my sleeping bag which it had been made for, put in my sleeping bag and retired.
I had almost dosed off when a car pulled up and a man came over and before he couls speak I asked if it was ok to sleep here. He said no problem but thought I might be cold. I told him my sleeping bag was a good one but my tent was not good enough should it storm. He said goodbye and drove off and I snuggled down again and awoke soon to heavy rain. It was not coming into my part of the porch so I was happy. when I saw the car return and the chap said he had found an albergue for me if I would like to move, and he said he would drive me there. I guessed he was uncomfortable for me to stay here so I packed up and went with him. He said there were two types of albergue, one for workers that travelled to pick crops and another for peregrinos. He thought I had gone to the wrong one. I thought they at least could have told me this at the albergue when I knocked, not just turn me away. I still have my doubts on this but if true it might explain some of the other closed albergues.
I packed the rucksack again and he drove me back into the town. In the square he parked near the police station and said wait here I was and he got out and came back with a policeman!
He got out my rucksack and I was signalled to follow them. We crossed the road and entered an office. At the desk the policeman asked for my new credential and stamped it (I had two stamps now!) and he took my details, passport number etc. He then gave me a key with instructions what to do to return it in the morning. We came out and went to the end building and opened a glass door with bars on and there were bars on the windows on each side too. The door opened into a room with a table and chairs where one could eat, and through that room to a kitchen. In here was a gas heater but it wouldn't light, so there was no hot water. Off this were the toilet and shower and a bedroom with a couple of bunk beds. There was more beds upstairs he said if I would prefer to be there.
"No, this will do fine" I said and both wished me well and left me to settle in.
I realised this was the old prison that was why there was bars on all the windows, to stop people getting out not in!!! Still I had the key! It was quite clean and nice compared to some albergues.
I took a freezing shower and washed my shirts and socks, then stretched my washing line across the kitchen and pinned them up to dry. I also used the shower to wash off the plastic sheet that I had used in the dirty wash place in Bocal as it now stank of cats!
The plastic sheet now smelt a bit better but the shower didn't!!! There was no room on my wash line so I hang it in the shower to dry. My washing line was neck high and I had to duck under it to get to the front room but those were the only hooks I could find! I locked the door and chose my bunk and went to bed for the second time that night.
I crossed the bridge and travelled down the left bank of the canal, therefore I never saw much of the palace or the park, and again arrows didn't comply with the book as far as I could see! I came to the railway bridge at the entrance to Tudela and stopped in the centre because the guidebook said from here I should see the pilgrims refuge and also see the bronze markers put to guide the peregrino. I saw nothing!!
I crossed the bridge and turned right and got to where I was supposed to see arrows or something, nothing. Ok, must be in this general direction. Then I saw one and came to an albergue but the gates were bolted and not a soul to ask. It looked as if it had been deserted for some time. There was a number to phone but no one answered. I was out of luck again.
I set off into the town centre and here found arrows and a tourist office near the cathedral. I found the area but the bar that I was supposed to ask in was closed. A Welshman said he also wanted a room as he had stayed one night but had decided to stay one more, but the café was closed and he didn't know what he could do. I speak reasonable Spanish so I tried asking in the dress shop next door. The girl in there was helpful and came out and said I should try the door in between hers and the bar. She came with me and pushed the intercom bell. A female voice asked what we wanted and the young lady said a man wanted a room. The door clicked unlocked and I opened it. The door opened into a staircase and I climbed the stairs. The woman's voice called down something but I had got nearly to the top and continued up till I could see her standing holding a door half-open. I asked her if there was a room for me.
Pushing a young child that was holding onto her leg inside she exclaimed
"Not for you" and slammed the door in my face.
I stood there dumb struck for a moment then turned and went down. The Welshman was still there and I told him what had happened.
"Wow! You had better go back to the tourist office I suppose."
This I did and I unloaded my rucksack on to the floor while I waited for the girl to finish with the person before me.
I explained what had happened
"Oh dear" she said "you should not use the word Robo that means I robbed!"
Good God! I found myself telling her what had happened in Barcelona in English. Again she said
"Never use the word 'Robo' say 'y saca mi dinero
"Go back now" she said.
As I was getting my pack on and collecting my sticks the Welshman ran in and said
"The bar is open I have my room but you should hurry!"
I went back and now sure enough the bar was open. I went in and asked the ba
"Can't help with names of places to stay but if you keep to the main road you should find some hostels ok" I said tongue in cheek! I spent most of the afternoon looking round the old town and it had many interesting streets and of course the cathedral.
I saw a newly married couple having their wedding photos taken and also a young girl's communion. I took a few nice photos of both.
Also there was an interesting market in a square that had games for children to play as well as the market stalls. I watched for a while. Children tried to walk on wooden skis or swing a ball on a pole to knock down skittles and other games.
I left and found a bank and got more Euro's for the next stage of my journey. I ate tapas in several bars for a meal this used several of them! Coffee was taken with nice cakes in a baker's come coffee shop near the market. It is fairly unusual in Spain to find chairs and tables and the chance to eat the gorgeous cream cakes and pastries with a coffee. Coffee is usually found in a bar or restaurant, although breakfast can be fresh delivered pastries or croissant in a bar, but quite often now a days pre-packed factory type fairy cakes and supermarket pastries are more usual.
END DAY 11 = 5.2 Kms Total = 251.9 kms according to book
Sun 27/05/07
Tudela to Alfaro
I walked out of Tudela ok, as I had looked at the shells in the pavement yesterday. I found the railway and went under it and turned left and walked the track parallel with it. A man was standing by his car and told me the track was private and led only to the small gardens that were on my right but I had seen arrows and knew I was right, so thanked him but said what I was doing and kept straight on. The track stayed by the railway for some while, then at the council depot, arrows took me out to the right and I neared the river. I stopped at a garden hut and sat on a brick seat and drank half a litre of milk I had been carrying. I must admit the energy returned, and I managed to do this several mornings afterwards. I left the hut and its shelter from the cool wind. It was hard going and I knew by the direction, I was being given a so-called prettier way to go. A pilgrim is more interested in getting from A to B unless it is the original camino or stunningly beautiful! This way turned out to be very ordinary, flat farmland and trees by the river and rough
farm tracks and poorly marked.I had to take a chance several times on which path to take. I came to a fork in the track with no marker straight ahead and which looked unused but so was my camino. I turned left and it soon bent round going back the way I had come! But then it turned to the right again over a rise. Should I go back or keep going? I thought 'go to the rise and look over' and this I did. From the top I could see the railway power lines crossing left to right. My rough track headed over to them. The book said the camino followed the railway so I'd get over to them. I came to them and the track turned again back towards Tudela!! But I could see a bridge and on the other side of the railway, a road ran back towards me on the other side of the railway line. Ok I walked to the bridge and crossed over turned north again, this time on the other side of the railway track passing where I had looked and seen the bridge. I realised I could have walked by the railway all the way and got to here in half the time and distance that I had tramped!
Now I had miles of straight gravel road in front of me.
I met a man running towards me and later he passed me again, going back home I presume. I must be near civilisation I thought as he disappeared! I came to Castejon and my feet were bad and hurting but I felt ok just mainly tired and very hungry!
It was a nice little town and being Sunday folk were milling around and sitting at tables in the square but as far as I could see they were only drinking. On a corner I saw a Burger bar but it looked as if I could only get bocadillos or burger at the most. I asked two women standing outside if there was a restaurant or bar I could get a real meal, not bocadillos. "There is a restaurant but why not here!" they said pointing to the little bar in front of us.
"They will serve you what you want and cheaper"
"OK I'll try it thank you." I replied.
I went in up to the counter and while I waited to be served I got chatting to three men by who asked why the big pack. I told them I had walked four caminos and was walking this one from Tortosa to Santiago as my fifth. I showed them the camino names carved on my staff. They were really friendly and the lady behind the bar was obviously listening as I told how hard this one had been, what with the bad weather and being the only daft Australian peregrino to walk it I joked. She turned and asked me what I wanted. I said a large white coffee and she turned to make it and continued to listen and joined in the conversation. Giving me the coffee she asked if there was anything else and I explained I was hungry. She immediately offered bocadillos of every description.
"Well what I would really like is meat and some potatoes or chips as I have had bocadillos nearly everyday!" I was exaggerating but I was fed up with so much bread. I beamed when she said
"I would cook some if you would like to wait a moment, chicken, pork or veal?"
I chose the veal. Excusing myself I chose a table and removed my rucksack and put it on a chair, got my coffee and sat at the table. As I did this I removed a Koala. The men came over and stood near and we chatted again till the lady returned with a huge plate on which were two huge pieces of veal and piled high with chips. I gave her the Koala as a thank you, and asked for another coffee. I got my coffee and ate every scrap of the meal, but before I could finish she placed a large bowl of cherries in front of me. I had not eaten like this since I arrived In Spain. The bar was quite full now and my new friends stood around the table talking and the bar lady too. Now finished and full I thanked her and said
"That’s the best meal I've had for ages how much do I owe?"
I could see she was slightly embarrassed as she said
"Nada" (nothing). I could see my protest and offers of payment were making her more so. I rose accepted her gift and said
"I'll hug the Santo for you when I get to Santiago." She smiled and nodded. All waved as I left. Does this moment make up for all the hardships of this camino? Yes, I thought, as I left to find the next yellow arrows.
I arrived in Alfaro and a building that was possibly an albergue was closed up!
I asked a man and he said it was in town and asked if I was the man that had rang? I said no I hadn't but needed a bed for the night. We walked into the town and he suddenly excused himself and went into a house. I was a bit puzzled but I had not understood all he said. I had a coffee in a bar and asked for the albergue again and was told to continue and turn right I would find it. Anyway this I did and came to the large studded door of a three-story building marked albergue. It was closed and I banged on it. It opened by a young lady, I asked if there was a bed for a peregrino.
"No" she said turning and looking at the young man behind her.
I tried again for I thought this was supposed to be a youth hostel albergue.
"I am walking to Santiago and am sixty-seven and just need a bed for the night, It looks like rain."
"We are full" she said pointing to two bikes at the other side of the large slate floored entrance hall.
"The floor will do, I have everything I need to sleep."
"No we are full!"
She was closing the door
"Thank you for your help" I said with a bit of malice in my voice.
Camping again I suppose I thought as I found my way out of town following the Logroño highway. I walked about two km passing tile factories and found some soft light plastic foam sheeting, used to wrap them, in a ditch. It was clean so I rolled it up thinking it might help when I camped. I then came to an ermita. I went to it-it was locked as normal. There were flowers on the wrought iron entrance but the porch was open on two sides. The clouds were rolling in black again. It was early but this porch could make a comfortable shelter for the night. I tried the house behind but could find no one to ask. I unpacked and rolled out the new foam on the tile floor. I would use the tent as a cover for my sleeping bag which it had been made for, put in my sleeping bag and retired.
I had almost dosed off when a car pulled up and a man came over and before he couls speak I asked if it was ok to sleep here. He said no problem but thought I might be cold. I told him my sleeping bag was a good one but my tent was not good enough should it storm. He said goodbye and drove off and I snuggled down again and awoke soon to heavy rain. It was not coming into my part of the porch so I was happy. when I saw the car return and the chap said he had found an albergue for me if I would like to move, and he said he would drive me there. I guessed he was uncomfortable for me to stay here so I packed up and went with him. He said there were two types of albergue, one for workers that travelled to pick crops and another for peregrinos. He thought I had gone to the wrong one. I thought they at least could have told me this at the albergue when I knocked, not just turn me away. I still have my doubts on this but if true it might explain some of the other closed albergues.
I packed the rucksack again and he drove me back into the town. In the square he parked near the police station and said wait here I was and he got out and came back with a policeman!
He got out my rucksack and I was signalled to follow them. We crossed the road and entered an office. At the desk the policeman asked for my new credential and stamped it (I had two stamps now!) and he took my details, passport number etc. He then gave me a key with instructions what to do to return it in the morning. We came out and went to the end building and opened a glass door with bars on and there were bars on the windows on each side too. The door opened into a room with a table and chairs where one could eat, and through that room to a kitchen. In here was a gas heater but it wouldn't light, so there was no hot water. Off this were the toilet and shower and a bedroom with a couple of bunk beds. There was more beds upstairs he said if I would prefer to be there.
"No, this will do fine" I said and both wished me well and left me to settle in.
I realised this was the old prison that was why there was bars on all the windows, to stop people getting out not in!!! Still I had the key! It was quite clean and nice compared to some albergues.
I took a freezing shower and washed my shirts and socks, then stretched my washing line across the kitchen and pinned them up to dry. I also used the shower to wash off the plastic sheet that I had used in the dirty wash place in Bocal as it now stank of cats!
The plastic sheet now smelt a bit better but the shower didn't!!! There was no room on my wash line so I hang it in the shower to dry. My washing line was neck high and I had to duck under it to get to the front room but those were the only hooks I could find! I locked the door and chose my bunk and went to bed for the second time that night.END DAY 12 = 18.5Kms Total = 270.4 kms according to book
