Mon 28/05/07
I took down my washing and packed away what had dried. The rest, socks and pants, I pinned on the outside of my rucksack after all my other gear had been stowed away, only thing was, I forgot the washing line! It was left up and would catch out the next person that walked in the room! I never remembered for days till I went to use it again. "Sorry Mr policeman!!!"
I went along to the office and a nice lady policeman took the key and I set of to look for a bar to have breakfast! I asked a man and he pointed out a bar that looked closed but when I got to it and looked inside there was a barman. The coffee was good but they only had the usual pre-packed cakes. I now walked the two kilometres out of town to the Emita and took a photo of the little church where I had tried to sleep. The camino turned off to the right here and I followed the arrows.
I crossed the train line and it was not very interesting and straight, following the railway for much of the way with a wind blowing in my face. My little toe was giving me hell, and after a while, looking for a dry place to sit and not finding anything, I unloaded my rucksack, got out my first aide kit, sat on the blue metal gravel that supports the railway line. The top layer was dry fairly close to the line, and I removed my boot. I put cream and stuck plasters on the offending toe and wrapped the complete toes on that foot in a piece of chamois leather that I carry just for an occasion like this. As I carefully rolled on my sock I saw the train coming round the curve. I thought I'd be ok, and it blew its whistle and went by two or three feet from me. Crikey! I hadn't allowed for the wind or the noise!!! I huddled down trying to cover my ears. I would give fast moving trains more space next time! Back on the track again and in ten kilometres of my starting point I arrived at Rincon del Soto. I deviated into town to find a bar.
I found one that was very busy, ordered and asked a local man if it was ok for me to sit at his table, and we chatted while I ate a nice tortilla con jamón bocadillo and drank a coffee con coñac. The brandy was not for me, just for my feet I assured my companion! The omelette sandwich was so good and I guess I was hungry that I ate it all and ordered another to take with me. The bar lady cooked it and wrapped it well in tinfoil for me and I paid and put it in my bread bag that hangs on the outside of my rucksack. I found my way back and left the small town. The next twelve km were hard,
a cold head wind over open ground and my feet hurting. For quite a while I could see the town ahead and it very slowly came closer.
There's a beautiful building on the left as you come to the town, the Santuario de la Virgen del Carmen but I was too tired to go over to it to see it closer but admired it from a distance. I came to a junction and turned across a bridge into the town over the canal de Lodosa. There was a big church on my right and the main road went left but a small road could be seen climbing up just to the left of the church. I saw arrows and headed for it and up the steep road. There was a small bar on my right and I decided I badly needed a coffee if I was to continue up this hill.
There was little room for a chap with a big rucksack but I got through to the right of the counter up two steps and dumped the bag and my cape on a chair then ordered a large white coffee and a splash of brandy. It was a cosy little bar but I was the stranger and no one spoke unless they had too. Feeling stronger now I left them but first asked where the albergue was. I was told to climb the hill till I got to the flight of steps then to go up them. "It's somewhere there but we don’t know which house it is."
I did as instructed and climbed to the top but still never saw a sign or anyone to ask. All but a few steps to the top, there was an iron gate over a steel door in the building to my right. I read a small plaque, saw that this was the albergue and pressed the bell, banged on the door and made as much noise as I could when the first thing never worked. But still nothing! It was an old building with no windows at low level. A big iron gate two meters high stopped me from going through to a patio at the end, where I could see what looked like a bar entrance. I gave up and turned left and up the last few steps. To my right was a very imposing church, straight ahead an open square with seats and a few trees.
I called out "Ola"
A voice sounded down the stairs on my left. I climbed them glad of my two staffs. In front of me a small counter and a young woman asked what I wanted and I explained.
"Well I know very little about it but I can ring for you" she offered and went back to her desk and phoned.
Coming back she said,
"The man said he would come to open it later, if you would like to walk into town and find something to eat, by the time you get back it will be open. Would you like to leave your pack here? I will probably be gone but I will leave a message with my co-worker that it's yours and where to find it."
I accepted her offer and she came through the flap in the counter, unlocked a door on the side and said
"It will be safe locked in here."
I now asked,
"How do I get to the part of town where there might be a restaurant?"
She gave me a map and instructions. Well prepared I now left.
I was at the very highest point of town I believed and reading the map carefully proceeded down the narrow streets till about half way down the hill, I came to a junction
I turned right and went up again at right angles. I made sure I understood every change of direction and found the map very useful. I was also glad I had left my rucksack behind, this was hard work even without it! 'People here would be very fit' I thought!
I now found myself walking into a big square and realised I was now at the top of this hill. On my right was the imposing church dedicated to Santiago,I could see the restaurant she had recommended on its left but could see from here it was closed. As the church door was open, I decided to enter the church, too often they are locked!
I went in and it was a beautiful church with lots of guilt and gold with a few lights on, giving a warm cosy feeling. It was very quiet and I was, as far as I could see, the only person here.
As you know my camino had been hard and lonely this year. I am now right up the top of the Ebro camino and in Calahorra. I am hungry and tired waiting for an albergue to open. I have walked into this church on the spur of the moment, to say my thanks for getting me this far and to thank all those people who had helped me. I went near to the front and knelt in the pews and bowed my head, said my thanks. I had not felt as comfortable in any of the churches on my way here. There were, as far as I could see, no candles I could light. Nothing but a warm cosy feeling and as I came out I felt good. I had found a friend here! Daft I know but that's how it felt and for weeks afterwards could feel comfort when alone as if he (Santiago) was beside me and I often sang words something more or less on the lines of this poem. I call it
On the Ebro Camino with my friend Santiago
I have shared this poem a few times with some of my old and some new peregrino friends I was to meet afterwards. One dear friend commented when I said it must sound daft!
"Thank you for the poem, I think I know how you felt and it is never daft!! Hard to say maybe it was the mystery of friendship that touched you while you were there, thanking and thinking of your friends. Anyway this old peregrino Santiago knows how you feel when you are lonely, hungry and tired as you put all that down, near the rucksack and go and thank him and have a thought for your friends!"
I have had spiritual and strange things touch me on camino before but this was one of the few times away from the line of the French camino and Finisterra. Now I question, how wide would this line be? After all it is said some pilgrims on the French route passed through Calahorra on their way to Santiago!
I came out of the church and stood by that large door thinking for a moment. Hunger made my thoughts return to my quest of coming here in the first place to eat.
Looking round I found in the narrow street to the left an Andalucía tapas bar. I felt I wanted something more, a full meal. I went back to the square and asked a man and was told to try the restaurant on the other side of the square. This was closed too! I realised it must be that time of day. Ok so back to the pretend Andalucían bar where I had a beer and piece of potato omelette (tortilla español). Nothing else in the glass case looked very freshly cooked, most were sea food and mussels can be a risk if just warmed up I think, so I left still hungry and headed back hoping to get in the albergue. It was time my luck changed, I'm thinking as I carefully negotiated the narrow streets and climbed back up to the Council office. My first assistant had gone but the new lady was just as helpful. No, she had heard nothing about the albergue but she would phone for me again. After the phone conversation she returned to the counter and said the man would come as soon as he could. If I would like to go down stairs and wait in the lounge he would be here in a short while. I got her to unlock the room where my rucksack was and took it below to the lounge to wait.
I had completely forgotten other people have to eat too! This was siesta time for the Spanish here!
I made myself comfortable on the chairs and I dozed for a while. I was disturbed from my doze when the door opened and a man entered, stopped at the stairs and then turned to me
"Are you the peregrino?" He didn't sound too happy to be there.
"Er yes that’s me."
"Come follow me".
He returned to the door and waited while I got my rucksack and staffs and followed him out. Crossing the square he asked where I had walked from and his tone softened as I explained I had walked from Tortosa near Tarragona.
We got to the albergue and he produced a set of keys and proceeded to open it and we entered the small lobby and turned into a large high room with a reception desk. But the thing that struck me was the opulence of the place we had entered. In front were huge glass doors with crests and flowery patterns etched on them, everything look brand new. I seemed to be in a four star hotel! He asked for my credential and took the details and I explained it only showed from Tudela as that was the first place I had been able to get one but that I had other stamps in my guide book.
"No problema, Tortosa dicho?" and he entered it in the book. I was then escorted upstairs and shown a nice clean room with three single beds, the spotless bathroom was adjoining.
"Have you eaten" he asked
"No all I could find was tapas in town"
"Ok you clean up then come downstairs. Go through the glass doors into the restaurant."
"I have time to shower"?
"Yes I'll ring the bell"
Left on my own I could not believe my new found luck. The shower was fabulous, hot and easy to control, I soaked and lathered in luxury dried and put on clean clothes. Well my trousers were the same ones, I had only one pair of long pants! I had walked at times in shorts and managed to wash them but not too recently!
I heard the bell as I pulled on my last bits and quickly slipped on my flip-flop sandals and went down. My new acquaintance was at the superbly well stocked bar. What would you like to drink he said.
"A red wine please"
Asking my preference as to dry or sweet, he selected a very fine Rioja wine and de-corked it and poured me a long stemmed crystal glass full! Then he discussed the best wines to drink here - I was beginning to like this place! He turned and placed a large dish of green olives on the counter.
"What would you like to eat fish or meat"
"Oh! Err, meat please" I said through a mouthful of delightful olives!
"Pork, lamb, or veal?"
"Veal please "
"Ok won't be long" and he disappeared into the large kitchen that I could see through a door behind the bar. Shortly he came back and set a table for one and invited me to sit. Fine wine, superb surroundings, spotless white tablecloths, crystal glasses. I must be dreaming!
"Thank you" said I, taking a sip of the glass of red nectar.
He soon returned and carefully spooned two extremely large veal cutlets onto my plate and a great heap of chips, then placed the empty tray on the bar counter.
I asked him to join me in a glass of wine and he agreed, retrieved a glass and filled it, and sat on a nearby barstool with his glass of the Rioja. We chatted while I ate and time flew. The building as I understood him to say, belonged the university and was used by Spain's finest orchestras and guests when they came here to play and study. He was also studying music at university.
'Good God Pavoroti might have stayed here!!!!' I thought suitably impressed.
No wonder he had been peeved at having to open up this building for one scruffy peregrino!
He went on to say he was married and his wife was at home in Madrid. He tried to get home as much as possible, and he went on to ask if I was married. The conversation then covered my family and my five caminos in Spain till the bottle was almost empty.
"Your choice of sweet - yoghurt, flan or ice cream? I chose icecream.
"I must go" he apologised looking at his watch.
He disappeared into the kitchen and returned with my desert.
"I have to leave. Will you be staying inside as I can't leave you the key?"
"All I want to do is sleep after that superb meal and I shall leave early in the morning."
"Ok just make sure the door is properly closed when you leave. A cleaner will wash up!" "Ok, I'll just leave the things on the bar." I said.
It was early but with that big meal inside of me I would sleep well tonight!
Alfaro to Calahorra
I took down my washing and packed away what had dried. The rest, socks and pants, I pinned on the outside of my rucksack after all my other gear had been stowed away, only thing was, I forgot the washing line! It was left up and would catch out the next person that walked in the room! I never remembered for days till I went to use it again. "Sorry Mr policeman!!!"
I went along to the office and a nice lady policeman took the key and I set of to look for a bar to have breakfast! I asked a man and he pointed out a bar that looked closed but when I got to it and looked inside there was a barman. The coffee was good but they only had the usual pre-packed cakes. I now walked the two kilometres out of town to the Emita and took a photo of the little church where I had tried to sleep. The camino turned off to the right here and I followed the arrows.
I crossed the train line and it was not very interesting and straight, following the railway for much of the way with a wind blowing in my face. My little toe was giving me hell, and after a while, looking for a dry place to sit and not finding anything, I unloaded my rucksack, got out my first aide kit, sat on the blue metal gravel that supports the railway line. The top layer was dry fairly close to the line, and I removed my boot. I put cream and stuck plasters on the offending toe and wrapped the complete toes on that foot in a piece of chamois leather that I carry just for an occasion like this. As I carefully rolled on my sock I saw the train coming round the curve. I thought I'd be ok, and it blew its whistle and went by two or three feet from me. Crikey! I hadn't allowed for the wind or the noise!!! I huddled down trying to cover my ears. I would give fast moving trains more space next time! Back on the track again and in ten kilometres of my starting point I arrived at Rincon del Soto. I deviated into town to find a bar.
I found one that was very busy, ordered and asked a local man if it was ok for me to sit at his table, and we chatted while I ate a nice tortilla con jamón bocadillo and drank a coffee con coñac. The brandy was not for me, just for my feet I assured my companion! The omelette sandwich was so good and I guess I was hungry that I ate it all and ordered another to take with me. The bar lady cooked it and wrapped it well in tinfoil for me and I paid and put it in my bread bag that hangs on the outside of my rucksack. I found my way back and left the small town. The next twelve km were hard,
a cold head wind over open ground and my feet hurting. For quite a while I could see the town ahead and it very slowly came closer.
There's a beautiful building on the left as you come to the town, the Santuario de la Virgen del Carmen but I was too tired to go over to it to see it closer but admired it from a distance. I came to a junction and turned across a bridge into the town over the canal de Lodosa. There was a big church on my right and the main road went left but a small road could be seen climbing up just to the left of the church. I saw arrows and headed for it and up the steep road. There was a small bar on my right and I decided I badly needed a coffee if I was to continue up this hill.
There was little room for a chap with a big rucksack but I got through to the right of the counter up two steps and dumped the bag and my cape on a chair then ordered a large white coffee and a splash of brandy. It was a cosy little bar but I was the stranger and no one spoke unless they had too. Feeling stronger now I left them but first asked where the albergue was. I was told to climb the hill till I got to the flight of steps then to go up them. "It's somewhere there but we don’t know which house it is."
I did as instructed and climbed to the top but still never saw a sign or anyone to ask. All but a few steps to the top, there was an iron gate over a steel door in the building to my right. I read a small plaque, saw that this was the albergue and pressed the bell, banged on the door and made as much noise as I could when the first thing never worked. But still nothing! It was an old building with no windows at low level. A big iron gate two meters high stopped me from going through to a patio at the end, where I could see what looked like a bar entrance. I gave up and turned left and up the last few steps. To my right was a very imposing church, straight ahead an open square with seats and a few trees.
(The photo is looking back to the Albergue from here.)
I went through this square and found a Red Cross building with big glass doors. I could see a young lady at a desk but she knew nothing of the albergue.
I went through this square and found a Red Cross building with big glass doors. I could see a young lady at a desk but she knew nothing of the albergue."Have you tried the council building opposite?" she asked.
I found another large glass door in the old building that I thought she meant and went in. An entrance hall with steps down to a lounge with nice blue velvet armchairs and a coffee table but no one about!I called out "Ola"
A voice sounded down the stairs on my left. I climbed them glad of my two staffs. In front of me a small counter and a young woman asked what I wanted and I explained.
"Well I know very little about it but I can ring for you" she offered and went back to her desk and phoned.
Coming back she said,
"The man said he would come to open it later, if you would like to walk into town and find something to eat, by the time you get back it will be open. Would you like to leave your pack here? I will probably be gone but I will leave a message with my co-worker that it's yours and where to find it."
I accepted her offer and she came through the flap in the counter, unlocked a door on the side and said
"It will be safe locked in here."
I now asked,
"How do I get to the part of town where there might be a restaurant?"
She gave me a map and instructions. Well prepared I now left.
I was at the very highest point of town I believed and reading the map carefully proceeded down the narrow streets till about half way down the hill, I came to a junction
I turned right and went up again at right angles. I made sure I understood every change of direction and found the map very useful. I was also glad I had left my rucksack behind, this was hard work even without it! 'People here would be very fit' I thought!I now found myself walking into a big square and realised I was now at the top of this hill. On my right was the imposing church dedicated to Santiago,I could see the restaurant she had recommended on its left but could see from here it was closed. As the church door was open, I decided to enter the church, too often they are locked!
I went in and it was a beautiful church with lots of guilt and gold with a few lights on, giving a warm cosy feeling. It was very quiet and I was, as far as I could see, the only person here.As you know my camino had been hard and lonely this year. I am now right up the top of the Ebro camino and in Calahorra. I am hungry and tired waiting for an albergue to open. I have walked into this church on the spur of the moment, to say my thanks for getting me this far and to thank all those people who had helped me. I went near to the front and knelt in the pews and bowed my head, said my thanks. I had not felt as comfortable in any of the churches on my way here. There were, as far as I could see, no candles I could light. Nothing but a warm cosy feeling and as I came out I felt good. I had found a friend here! Daft I know but that's how it felt and for weeks afterwards could feel comfort when alone as if he (Santiago) was beside me and I often sang words something more or less on the lines of this poem. I call it
On the Ebro Camino with my friend Santiago
On the Ebro
Santiago walked with me!
For I found peace and tranquillity.
I'd come so far and my feet were sore
when we two met, by a studded door.
Calahorra was the place we met.
It still feels strange and weird as yet.
He was there, but you couldn't see
Santiago walked with me!
For I found peace and tranquillity.
I'd come so far and my feet were sore
when we two met, by a studded door.
Calahorra was the place we met.
It still feels strange and weird as yet.
He was there, but you couldn't see
but I knew that he walked close to me.
This was a friend now by my side
a companion that doesn't have to hide.
The yellow arrows were always clear
while I knew him and could feel him near
On the Ebro
This was a friend now by my side
a companion that doesn't have to hide.
The yellow arrows were always clear
while I knew him and could feel him near
On the Ebro
I have shared this poem a few times with some of my old and some new peregrino friends I was to meet afterwards. One dear friend commented when I said it must sound daft!
"Thank you for the poem, I think I know how you felt and it is never daft!! Hard to say maybe it was the mystery of friendship that touched you while you were there, thanking and thinking of your friends. Anyway this old peregrino Santiago knows how you feel when you are lonely, hungry and tired as you put all that down, near the rucksack and go and thank him and have a thought for your friends!"
I have had spiritual and strange things touch me on camino before but this was one of the few times away from the line of the French camino and Finisterra. Now I question, how wide would this line be? After all it is said some pilgrims on the French route passed through Calahorra on their way to Santiago!
I came out of the church and stood by that large door thinking for a moment. Hunger made my thoughts return to my quest of coming here in the first place to eat.
Looking round I found in the narrow street to the left an Andalucía tapas bar. I felt I wanted something more, a full meal. I went back to the square and asked a man and was told to try the restaurant on the other side of the square. This was closed too! I realised it must be that time of day. Ok so back to the pretend Andalucían bar where I had a beer and piece of potato omelette (tortilla español). Nothing else in the glass case looked very freshly cooked, most were sea food and mussels can be a risk if just warmed up I think, so I left still hungry and headed back hoping to get in the albergue. It was time my luck changed, I'm thinking as I carefully negotiated the narrow streets and climbed back up to the Council office. My first assistant had gone but the new lady was just as helpful. No, she had heard nothing about the albergue but she would phone for me again. After the phone conversation she returned to the counter and said the man would come as soon as he could. If I would like to go down stairs and wait in the lounge he would be here in a short while. I got her to unlock the room where my rucksack was and took it below to the lounge to wait.
I had completely forgotten other people have to eat too! This was siesta time for the Spanish here!
I made myself comfortable on the chairs and I dozed for a while. I was disturbed from my doze when the door opened and a man entered, stopped at the stairs and then turned to me
"Are you the peregrino?" He didn't sound too happy to be there.
"Er yes that’s me."
"Come follow me".
He returned to the door and waited while I got my rucksack and staffs and followed him out. Crossing the square he asked where I had walked from and his tone softened as I explained I had walked from Tortosa near Tarragona.
We got to the albergue and he produced a set of keys and proceeded to open it and we entered the small lobby and turned into a large high room with a reception desk. But the thing that struck me was the opulence of the place we had entered. In front were huge glass doors with crests and flowery patterns etched on them, everything look brand new. I seemed to be in a four star hotel! He asked for my credential and took the details and I explained it only showed from Tudela as that was the first place I had been able to get one but that I had other stamps in my guide book.
"No problema, Tortosa dicho?" and he entered it in the book. I was then escorted upstairs and shown a nice clean room with three single beds, the spotless bathroom was adjoining.
"Have you eaten" he asked
"No all I could find was tapas in town"
"Ok you clean up then come downstairs. Go through the glass doors into the restaurant."
"I have time to shower"?
"Yes I'll ring the bell"
Left on my own I could not believe my new found luck. The shower was fabulous, hot and easy to control, I soaked and lathered in luxury dried and put on clean clothes. Well my trousers were the same ones, I had only one pair of long pants! I had walked at times in shorts and managed to wash them but not too recently!
I heard the bell as I pulled on my last bits and quickly slipped on my flip-flop sandals and went down. My new acquaintance was at the superbly well stocked bar. What would you like to drink he said.
"A red wine please"
Asking my preference as to dry or sweet, he selected a very fine Rioja wine and de-corked it and poured me a long stemmed crystal glass full! Then he discussed the best wines to drink here - I was beginning to like this place! He turned and placed a large dish of green olives on the counter.
"What would you like to eat fish or meat"
"Oh! Err, meat please" I said through a mouthful of delightful olives!
"Pork, lamb, or veal?"
"Veal please "
"Ok won't be long" and he disappeared into the large kitchen that I could see through a door behind the bar. Shortly he came back and set a table for one and invited me to sit. Fine wine, superb surroundings, spotless white tablecloths, crystal glasses. I must be dreaming!
"Thank you" said I, taking a sip of the glass of red nectar.
He soon returned and carefully spooned two extremely large veal cutlets onto my plate and a great heap of chips, then placed the empty tray on the bar counter.
I asked him to join me in a glass of wine and he agreed, retrieved a glass and filled it, and sat on a nearby barstool with his glass of the Rioja. We chatted while I ate and time flew. The building as I understood him to say, belonged the university and was used by Spain's finest orchestras and guests when they came here to play and study. He was also studying music at university.
'Good God Pavoroti might have stayed here!!!!' I thought suitably impressed.
No wonder he had been peeved at having to open up this building for one scruffy peregrino!
He went on to say he was married and his wife was at home in Madrid. He tried to get home as much as possible, and he went on to ask if I was married. The conversation then covered my family and my five caminos in Spain till the bottle was almost empty.
"Your choice of sweet - yoghurt, flan or ice cream? I chose icecream.
"I must go" he apologised looking at his watch.
He disappeared into the kitchen and returned with my desert.
"I have to leave. Will you be staying inside as I can't leave you the key?"
"All I want to do is sleep after that superb meal and I shall leave early in the morning."
"Ok just make sure the door is properly closed when you leave. A cleaner will wash up!" "Ok, I'll just leave the things on the bar." I said.
It was early but with that big meal inside of me I would sleep well tonight!
END DAY 13 = 22.3 kms Total = 292.7 kms according to book
