Hospital de Órbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo
Next morning I awoke late and I realised I had not arranged to meet anyone to walk with. The other two had stopped in the other albergue and Roser had stopped in the female dorm here and I could not very well barge in to see if she had gone. I filled my water bottle and ate some breakfast cake, and chatted a while with other peregrinos but thought she must have left early. Waving goodbye to some I set off alone. I walked very fast, my feet were feeling good today. I was hoping to catch her up, but never did, she must have still been in the dorm. I soon came to Villares de Órbigo and took another look at their superb notice to Peregrinos written in several languages.
I left the village behind and travelled over some hilly country covered with Holm oaks. I remembered sleeping in the shade of some about mid day last time but there was no need today. It was quite a nice day, and now my spirits were high as I strode along passing a few walkers. Just about 10kms out of Villares I came to the stone cross and again looked out across the valley to Astorga. This is quite an impressive view and I first got a young lady to take my photo near the cross, then found a picnic table and ate some lunch looking at the valley. Many other peregrinos arrived and either did the same, or continued on down hill.
I packed my things and left and some way down the hill I chatted to an old local man sitting on a bench. A very pretty tall young Canadian girl soon joined us. She, like me, had a long staff, but attached to hers was a large eagle feather. The old man wanted to know all about us and we eventually shook his hand and left him waiting for the next peregrina. We had hardly turned the next bend when it happened again, only this time the man was standing on the pavement. He stopped us and wished us a safe journey and shook hands with me. He had a crushing grip but let go and turned to my companion. The only thing was once he had got hold of her elegant hand he had no intention of letting go!! I could see her winch as he crushed it in his powerful grip! There was little I could do! He held on to her while telling us how strong and fit he was for a 85 year old man who had spent his life on the land. At last she managed to pull her hand free and we cheerily waved him goodbye. We turned back down hill and she, rubbing her poor hand exclaimed,
"God he got a strong grip!! He's nearly crushed my hand! I thought he'd never let go!"
We both laughed and hoped we would not meet his brother on the next corner! This meeting and greeting by elderly gents often happens on camino and they politely kiss the girls given the slightest chance. But I have never heard anyone say they felt threatened at all. This old man had never walked to Santiago and now someone might just hug the Santo and think of him.
I came into Astorga alone and climbed up to the centre of the town.
Here there is the albergue that I used before but I wanted to go on. First I must get my photos off the camera and onto a disc and buy some food and get a coffee. There was a market on and the square was packed but no food stalls. I found a bar where I rested, then a photo shop where I waited a while for them to make the disc and a copy. I normally send the copy home but this time somehow that never happened. I carried both till I got back! I remembered the fun we'd had here getting a meal last time. The Spanish ladies I was with complained to the waiter that the meat soup had no meat in it and it had got funnier and funnier as the waiter had complained back that this was how it was made here! He had acted just like Manuel from Faulty Towers.
I would not have any idea where that restaurant had been now. I set off out of town looking for the familiar arrows. It was still quite early when I came to Murias de Rechivldo. Another 5 k would take me to the next village but I decided to look at the albergue here. It looked a charming place with superb courtyard patio and the young couple friendly enough.
I bought a beer and sat around deciding if I should go on. Francesca arrived and later Roser and Yolanda so I decided to book in. I took a lower bunk and paid but was not able to cook in the kitchen so said I would share their meal and gave them the mince I had bought in Astorga. We all had a glass of sangria together from the bar.
I then spent a pleasant hour sitting in the sun outside the front entrance with Francesca. I whittled away at my stick, carving the four-leaf clover on it and the shell. The call for dinner arrived and the dining room was full. They were a jolly crowd and we swapped stories. Most people were French who spoke English. The meal turned out to be spaghetti but I think they forgot the sauce and they must have used the meat I gave them for themselves. I was in the middle of telling one of my experiences and I was starving and when someone passed a plate with bits of meat and cheese, I automatically flipped several chunks into my dish. Francesca grabbed it away saying it was Roser's and was for all the table!!
I was very embarrassed. Especially as I realised Roser had not had the spaghetti and this was her dinner but like a true Spaniard that she is, she had generously passed what she had around!!!
We laughed and chatted for a long while, then retired thinking we would get some sleep. The bunk bed looked new and I had not bothered to try laying on it before. No one slept that night! Every time you moved, even a finger the bed creaked loudly and every bed was the same!!!! Then the French moved out early. I think I slept then because I was late waking up next morning!
END DAY 28 = approx. 16.5 km Sub Total = 353.2 km Total = 691.1 km
