14/06/07
Yes, first things first we walked back downhill to get that breakfast and we were not disappointed. But it was pouring with rain as we left to climb back up and onto the camino. The drizzling rain and cold got worse as we climbed higher, but the view was superb. It then brightened up a bit and we stopped and sat on the bank to rest a while and
to absorb the view. 
The heather and wild flowers were so pretty, although the path had been widened in many places scarring the edges. It would take many years for nature to repair them but it would succeed I am sure. I preferred to remember it as I saw it just four years ago, but at least this time my camera was working and it was kept in use for most of today. I had picked up a small smooth pebble some days ago and today I would leave it at the iron cross that we knew was at the top of this mountain.
It is said that this might have been the site of an altar dedicated to the Roman God, Mercury (God of caminos), hence the iron cross! A hermit is said to have spent his whole life giving protection and shelter to travellers here.
It was cold and wet today - what must it be like in the winter, I thought as we arrived. I left my pebble at the base of the pole as I had done with a large white piece of alabaster last time, and hopefully leaving my problems with it as well as I have been told that is what is supposed to happen! I stood in thought for a moment and requested protection for the rest my trip too. This has been a hard trip at times.
I now left 
Francesca to do the same, and saw she was very moved by the experience for there were tears in her eyes when she came over to the porch where we were standing for shelter at the small ermita afterwards, and stood apart from us. I had discovered Roser here and she seemed to know nothing of the placing of stones but on hearing of it from me picked up a stone and she too left the pile just that little bit higher. I noticed how everyone stepped carefully over the stones and wood left in front of the ermita in the shape of a big heart!
The wet mist and cold continued as Francesca and I set off again across this beautiful high country, now following the telegraph wires.
We descended a little to the road and in two kilometres we found the crude shelter of Tomas in the deserted village of Manjarín, he is today's modern hermit! He gives shelter and coffee for a donation and the place was packed as we went in to see and risk a cup of his strong black brew. Last time my Spanish companion would not look in, as she had insisted it was filthy, this time to my surprise my new companion Francesca never even mentioned it.
Tomas's coffee was indeed very black but I survived it and it warmed me well. What a tough existence for him sat up here all the time, sun, rain, and snow with no amenities, a real Knight Templa.
Francesca bought a metal hat badge from Tomas depicting the iron cross on it and as we set off again she kindly gave it to me!
"So I can now honestly say I have been given the iron cross!" I joked
She also confided in me that she had visited a clairvoyant before she came on Camino and had been told by her,
"I can see a man with flowers round his hat standing behind you."
Francesca went on to say
"As you are always with a wildflower stuck in your hat and spend so much time looking at them, that would have been you I suppose!"
I liked Francesca very much, we seemed to have a common bond of friendship but nothing more, I just liked her company.
The road went downhill a bit but soon we could see that we would shortly climb to reach the highest point of the Camino at 1520 meters. The track skirts a telecommunication base of the defence ministry.
"It's all down hill from here" I joked, with the cold wind flapping and the damp still penetrating our clothes. The rain eased in a while and it was nice for a time and we sat on some rocks in a valley with an incredible view and ate bananas that somehow had survived today's journey. Here came a glorious rainbow I remember that gave even more splendour to the view.
We had cake and another hot coffee and cognac in a crowded bar in the tiny village of El Acbo.
Leaving here, next came Riego de Ambrós. This is an even smaller hamlet and as you leave the village the path descends into a steep and slippery gully (baranco). The narrow path was muddy with smooth rocky patches and water running over them and on down into the stream at the bottom of the gully. That’s right at the bottom is, naturally, a stream, but no bridge! We have to cross it. The water is filthy from the cattle and maybe human effluence that comes from the village above, and is today increased by rain run off. The plants seem to like this of course and it's all very overgrown with tall weeds, shrubs and trees.
It was raining and water was dripping from every branch we touched as we got near the stream. Owing to the rain the stream was running deep, I was in front leading the way and it was hard to find a crossing place. I did see a stone just under the surface to put one foot on and jumped the rest and landed on the opposite muddy bank. My boots were damp before, now they were muddy too as I took a pace or two up the path on the other side. Francesca didn't like the look of my choice of crossing place and worked her way down stream a bit and decided to cross there. There were a few more trees to hold onto to start with but she didn't quite get her foot on the muddy bank but instead found a fallen branch just under the surface of the stream. Realising she's getting a wet foot she quickly attempted to get the other foot onto the opposite bank, and catch her balance but the first foot slipped off into the water and she went forward down in the horrible smelly mud!
I'd tried to grab her but with my big pack on and my hands holding my sticks that had helped me balance, I had been unable to do much, other than to offer her a helping hand to pull her up afterwards. Luckily her big long grey waterproof cape had protected her main clothes. Francesca, grimacing, splashed water up onto the cape to wash the worst off, while I never helped much by chuckling. I think she forgave me!
In 2003 I had loved this part of my journey and have many fond memories. I was looking forward to see again the ancient giant chestnut tree (castaña) that five of us had held hands around and hugged. It is the biggest in a ring of five or more massive trees, but when we arrived today the rain was falling, the grass was all wet where we had sat and rested. The trees themselves looked sorry and sad this year, maybe fire had ravaged them, I don't know. The hedge that I had passed through on my way to find scrumptious cherries for my companions while they still slept out the heat of the day, was now dilapidated and there were no cherries! Sometimes you should never go back to a place, I patted the tree and hurried after my companion. Life moves on.
As we came lower the air warmed up and the sun came out, and there was but little breeze. We could see Molinaseca at the bottom of the valley and the winding road leading to it.
We seemed to come down a slightly different track this time but we came onto the tarmac road and followed it to the village. The last time I was here lots of children had been swimming by the old Roman bridge that we had to cross but not this time it was far to cold today I think. The little town had altered quite a bit. Many more of the houses are restored now. We asked about lodging in a couple of Casa Rurales but they were a bit expensive for me so we walked on and at the far side of town we found a new albergue open. This was great with new beds with a meter and a half between them!!!!!!! and spotlessly clean. It had only been open about a week. Unfortunately the restaurant was not finished yet.
Roser arrived here too and took a bunk near mine. The albergue wanted 3 Euro each to wash and dry our clothes, so to save cost we all dumped our dirty clothes in one lot and I boldly took them to the basement to get them washed in the washing machine. The lady of the house would not let me do it she insisted only she could fill the machines! She told me to put the washing on the top of the washer. She said she would do it and I could collect it later. Well it sat there for ages and when at last I saw the washer empty I dumped our stuff in before anyone else did and went up and told the lady it was ready for powder and to be switched on. Well she wasn't very happy but it got washed after a while but now sat for ages more in the machine waiting to be put in the dryer. I worried her several times and in the end she came down to do it. Her eyes popped open wide when a black pair of frilly panties and a bra fell on to the floor!
"Are those all yours!" she exclaimed
"Yes" I said smilingly and waltzed my way up the stairs.
Now I walked into town looking for the others and to have a look at this nice little town I found a bar and had a drink but there seemed no one about.
I wandered around again and came across Francesca in another bar and we had a beer together but she said she had eaten, tapas and was not hungry. I went off again back to the entrance of the town to find an open restaurant. I went into the first one you come to, as you arrive at the town, it looked very warm and cosy now.
The waiter was showing me to a table when a voice called out,
"Michael" and I turn to see Roser, Barbara and an Italian girl I vaguely knew too, but sadly I never managed to remember her name.
"Come join us" cried out Roser as another chair was pulled up, "do you mind?" she added as I came over and sat down.
"When I'm asked to join a table with not one, but three very attractive young ladies I am always happy to oblige" I chuckled "I've never been known to refuse such a generous offer!"
The meal was great for the price, I started with fish soup, then the main course, a ham and cheese dish with chips and finished with a home made flan. A bottle of good red wine and we all liked the Orujo! We had great fun and giggled away till quite late. We all walked back to the albergue then Roser and I said goodnight to the Italian girl and Barbara. They, still laughing went on up the road a bit further to the municipal albergue, where they were stopping I think, whilst we tried to be quiet as we collected our washing from the downstairs basement.
Fuencebadón to Molinaseca
Yes, first things first we walked back downhill to get that breakfast and we were not disappointed. But it was pouring with rain as we left to climb back up and onto the camino. The drizzling rain and cold got worse as we climbed higher, but the view was superb. It then brightened up a bit and we stopped and sat on the bank to rest a while and
to absorb the view. 
The heather and wild flowers were so pretty, although the path had been widened in many places scarring the edges. It would take many years for nature to repair them but it would succeed I am sure. I preferred to remember it as I saw it just four years ago, but at least this time my camera was working and it was kept in use for most of today. I had picked up a small smooth pebble some days ago and today I would leave it at the iron cross that we knew was at the top of this mountain.
It is said that this might have been the site of an altar dedicated to the Roman God, Mercury (God of caminos), hence the iron cross! A hermit is said to have spent his whole life giving protection and shelter to travellers here.
It was cold and wet today - what must it be like in the winter, I thought as we arrived. I left my pebble at the base of the pole as I had done with a large white piece of alabaster last time, and hopefully leaving my problems with it as well as I have been told that is what is supposed to happen! I stood in thought for a moment and requested protection for the rest my trip too. This has been a hard trip at times.
I now left 
Francesca to do the same, and saw she was very moved by the experience for there were tears in her eyes when she came over to the porch where we were standing for shelter at the small ermita afterwards, and stood apart from us. I had discovered Roser here and she seemed to know nothing of the placing of stones but on hearing of it from me picked up a stone and she too left the pile just that little bit higher. I noticed how everyone stepped carefully over the stones and wood left in front of the ermita in the shape of a big heart!
The wet mist and cold continued as Francesca and I set off again across this beautiful high country, now following the telegraph wires.
We descended a little to the road and in two kilometres we found the crude shelter of Tomas in the deserted village of Manjarín, he is today's modern hermit! He gives shelter and coffee for a donation and the place was packed as we went in to see and risk a cup of his strong black brew. Last time my Spanish companion would not look in, as she had insisted it was filthy, this time to my surprise my new companion Francesca never even mentioned it.
Tomas's coffee was indeed very black but I survived it and it warmed me well. What a tough existence for him sat up here all the time, sun, rain, and snow with no amenities, a real Knight Templa.
Francesca bought a metal hat badge from Tomas depicting the iron cross on it and as we set off again she kindly gave it to me!
"So I can now honestly say I have been given the iron cross!" I joked
She also confided in me that she had visited a clairvoyant before she came on Camino and had been told by her,
"I can see a man with flowers round his hat standing behind you."
Francesca went on to say
"As you are always with a wildflower stuck in your hat and spend so much time looking at them, that would have been you I suppose!"
I liked Francesca very much, we seemed to have a common bond of friendship but nothing more, I just liked her company.
The road went downhill a bit but soon we could see that we would shortly climb to reach the highest point of the Camino at 1520 meters. The track skirts a telecommunication base of the defence ministry.
"It's all down hill from here" I joked, with the cold wind flapping and the damp still penetrating our clothes. The rain eased in a while and it was nice for a time and we sat on some rocks in a valley with an incredible view and ate bananas that somehow had survived today's journey. Here came a glorious rainbow I remember that gave even more splendour to the view.
We had cake and another hot coffee and cognac in a crowded bar in the tiny village of El Acbo.
Leaving here, next came Riego de Ambrós. This is an even smaller hamlet and as you leave the village the path descends into a steep and slippery gully (baranco). The narrow path was muddy with smooth rocky patches and water running over them and on down into the stream at the bottom of the gully. That’s right at the bottom is, naturally, a stream, but no bridge! We have to cross it. The water is filthy from the cattle and maybe human effluence that comes from the village above, and is today increased by rain run off. The plants seem to like this of course and it's all very overgrown with tall weeds, shrubs and trees.
It was raining and water was dripping from every branch we touched as we got near the stream. Owing to the rain the stream was running deep, I was in front leading the way and it was hard to find a crossing place. I did see a stone just under the surface to put one foot on and jumped the rest and landed on the opposite muddy bank. My boots were damp before, now they were muddy too as I took a pace or two up the path on the other side. Francesca didn't like the look of my choice of crossing place and worked her way down stream a bit and decided to cross there. There were a few more trees to hold onto to start with but she didn't quite get her foot on the muddy bank but instead found a fallen branch just under the surface of the stream. Realising she's getting a wet foot she quickly attempted to get the other foot onto the opposite bank, and catch her balance but the first foot slipped off into the water and she went forward down in the horrible smelly mud!
I'd tried to grab her but with my big pack on and my hands holding my sticks that had helped me balance, I had been unable to do much, other than to offer her a helping hand to pull her up afterwards. Luckily her big long grey waterproof cape had protected her main clothes. Francesca, grimacing, splashed water up onto the cape to wash the worst off, while I never helped much by chuckling. I think she forgave me!
In 2003 I had loved this part of my journey and have many fond memories. I was looking forward to see again the ancient giant chestnut tree (castaña) that five of us had held hands around and hugged. It is the biggest in a ring of five or more massive trees, but when we arrived today the rain was falling, the grass was all wet where we had sat and rested. The trees themselves looked sorry and sad this year, maybe fire had ravaged them, I don't know. The hedge that I had passed through on my way to find scrumptious cherries for my companions while they still slept out the heat of the day, was now dilapidated and there were no cherries! Sometimes you should never go back to a place, I patted the tree and hurried after my companion. Life moves on.
As we came lower the air warmed up and the sun came out, and there was but little breeze. We could see Molinaseca at the bottom of the valley and the winding road leading to it.
We seemed to come down a slightly different track this time but we came onto the tarmac road and followed it to the village. The last time I was here lots of children had been swimming by the old Roman bridge that we had to cross but not this time it was far to cold today I think. The little town had altered quite a bit. Many more of the houses are restored now. We asked about lodging in a couple of Casa Rurales but they were a bit expensive for me so we walked on and at the far side of town we found a new albergue open. This was great with new beds with a meter and a half between them!!!!!!! and spotlessly clean. It had only been open about a week. Unfortunately the restaurant was not finished yet.Roser arrived here too and took a bunk near mine. The albergue wanted 3 Euro each to wash and dry our clothes, so to save cost we all dumped our dirty clothes in one lot and I boldly took them to the basement to get them washed in the washing machine. The lady of the house would not let me do it she insisted only she could fill the machines! She told me to put the washing on the top of the washer. She said she would do it and I could collect it later. Well it sat there for ages and when at last I saw the washer empty I dumped our stuff in before anyone else did and went up and told the lady it was ready for powder and to be switched on. Well she wasn't very happy but it got washed after a while but now sat for ages more in the machine waiting to be put in the dryer. I worried her several times and in the end she came down to do it. Her eyes popped open wide when a black pair of frilly panties and a bra fell on to the floor!
"Are those all yours!" she exclaimed
"Yes" I said smilingly and waltzed my way up the stairs.
Now I walked into town looking for the others and to have a look at this nice little town I found a bar and had a drink but there seemed no one about.
I wandered around again and came across Francesca in another bar and we had a beer together but she said she had eaten, tapas and was not hungry. I went off again back to the entrance of the town to find an open restaurant. I went into the first one you come to, as you arrive at the town, it looked very warm and cosy now.The waiter was showing me to a table when a voice called out,
"Michael" and I turn to see Roser, Barbara and an Italian girl I vaguely knew too, but sadly I never managed to remember her name.
"Come join us" cried out Roser as another chair was pulled up, "do you mind?" she added as I came over and sat down.
"When I'm asked to join a table with not one, but three very attractive young ladies I am always happy to oblige" I chuckled "I've never been known to refuse such a generous offer!"
The meal was great for the price, I started with fish soup, then the main course, a ham and cheese dish with chips and finished with a home made flan. A bottle of good red wine and we all liked the Orujo! We had great fun and giggled away till quite late. We all walked back to the albergue then Roser and I said goodnight to the Italian girl and Barbara. They, still laughing went on up the road a bit further to the municipal albergue, where they were stopping I think, whilst we tried to be quiet as we collected our washing from the downstairs basement.
END DAY 30 = approx. 19.4 km Sub Total = 398.9 km Total = 731.2 km
